How to Train for High Altitude Climbing

High Altitude Mountain

Training for high altitude climbing is the process of increasing your VO2 max. VO2 max is the volume of oxygen your body can consume per minute. VO2 can also be expressed as the number of milliliters per kilogram per minute your body can consume. In layman's terms, VO2 is your aerobic fitness. There are three factors, in addition to diet, to consider when training at low altitude for high altitude climbing: workout time, heart rate and acclimation.

Instructions

1. 

   Winter High Altitude Climb.

   Research the climb. Find out the number of hours the average climber requires to make the ascent and decent in order to determine the number of hours you must workout on training days in order to climb and return successfully. If you are an above- or below-average climber, find out how long a person in your condition ordinarily takes to make the trip.

   Multiply the number of minutes a person in your condition requires to make the climb and decent by .75. This sum is the length of time you should workout on training days.

2. 

   Running For Aerobic Exercise.

   Maintain your heart-rate during work-outs at between 70 and 80 percent of your maximum heart-rate. Keeping your heart rate in the "aerobic zone is vital for a successful climb.

   To determine your target heart-rate, subtract your age from 220. Multiply that sum by the percent of maximum heart-rate you wish to achieve. For example, if you wish to achieve 70 percent of your maximum heart-rate, multiply the sum of 220 minus your age by 0.70. For 80 percent, multiply the sum of 220 minus your age by 0.80.

3. Allow your body to acclimate to the starting elevation, or base, prior to making the ascent. An appropriate acclimation period is between two and five days. During the acclimation period, reduce your target heart-rate to between 30 and 40 percent of your maximum heart-rate and cut the length of your workouts to between 30 and 40 percent of your expected climb time.

References

• Heart Rate Training Zones
• Low-Altitude Training for High-Altitude Climbing
• Training With 5 Exercise Heart Rate Training Zones