How to Safely Climb Mount McKinley

Mount McKinley, North America's highest peak, is a difficult climb.

Not everyone is cut out to climb to the summit of Mount McKinley, the highest peak in North America. Prior experience in climbing and camping in snow, ice and adverse conditions and at altitudes above 18,000 feet are mandatory prerequisites for the three-week journey. Although the route is not technically difficult, only about half of climbing teams reach the peak because of the extreme weather and endurance-testing conditions. Although safety is a top priority for guides and climbers, a few climbers die each season. For your best chance of reaching the peak, take the West Buttress route and do not be ashamed to turn back if conditions become too harsh.

Instructions

Preparation

1. Choose a guide group for your expedition to Mount McKinley well in advance. Contact the guide organization for tips on training and preparation for the climb.

2. Climb and camp for several days on a wilderness route in the Rocky Mountains to train your wilderness survival skills.

3. Learn snow camping and how to use an ice axe and related snow climbing equipment on smaller mountains with similar harsh, cold conditions. Mount Shasta and Mount Rainer are both good training grounds.

4. Acclimate yourself to high altitudes by climbing to 18,000 feet above sea level on a less strenuous peak in Central or South America. This preparation in a similarly high altitude will teach you what to expect of your body as you climb Mount McKinley.

5. Develop your weight training abilities daily, up to the moment you start the climb. You will be required to carry at least 40 lbs. in supplies on your back and possibly 60 lbs. in a sled behind you as you climb.

6. Complete the training course offered by your guide company at the base of the mountain when you arrive in Alaska. While this will only review the skills you have already learned, it will refresh you for what is immediately ahead.

Ascent

1. Take the journey up Mount McKinley in a group. While it may seem brave to climb alone or with only a few friends, the most safety-conscious climber will climb with a licensed climbing guide in a group of several experienced and prepared climbers.

2. Begin your ascent early in the climbing season, which begins in late April or early May. While conditions on the mountain are colder during this time of year, storms and snowfall are less likely, making conditions safer for your group.

3. Climb responsibly throughout your ascent. Do not get too far ahead of or behind the rest of your group while climbing. While the climb requires physical and mental stamina through tough conditions, you must also know your limits.

4. Practice yoga, meditation, prayer or another reflective type of exercise each day or night after setting up camp. Your mental capacities, like concentration and judgment, are important factors that help to keep you safe.

Descent

1. Remain alert during your descent down the mountain. Although you will be elated at your completion of the climb, remember that the path back to the base is no easier and will require just as much mental and physical stamina, as you will already be cold and tired when you begin the descent.

2. Save the required amount of food to sustain yourself on your downward journey. Your climbing guide will be able to help you with this.

3. Stop to wait out any snowstorm, even if you are one day from the base. Heading downhill in a storm is much more dangerous than remaining on the mountain for an additional day, even if you are running low on food, supplies and strength.

References

• Alpine Ascents: Denali
• Peak Bagger: Mount McKinley, Alaska
• GreggMillett.com: climbing Mt. McKinley
• County High Pointers: Preparing for Denali (Mt. McKinley)
• RMI Expeditions: Mount McKinley Climbing Expeditions