How to Use Redken Color Proportions
Redken color gels are designed for salon professionals, rather than at home use. An understanding of color theory, levels and tones are just a few of the necessary prerequisites, before mixing gels and developer. Hair color is measured in levels from one (black) to 10 (blond), with a spectrum of color that determines the hair's cool and warm tones. Warmer colors can require more "decolorization" than cool colors---a process where the colorist removes the hair's pigment and tone. The proper proportions between the amount of lift needed and color deposited, determine the ratio of Redken color gels to developer. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Redken color swatches
- Redken color gel chart
- Redken color gel
- Redken color developer
- Measuring cup (metric)
- Mid-sized plastic bowl
- Long tail dye brush
Instructions
-
-
1
Determine the client's natural hair color and tone using Redken's color swatches. The color swatches feature colors levels from black (1) to blond (10), and tones from warm and ash. If the client's hair is red or dark brown then she will likely fall in the warm tone spectrum. Blond clients would most likely fall in the ash color spectrum.
-
2
Consult the client on the desired hair color to be able to properly select the right Redken color gel needed to counterbalance her natural tone. With the use of Redken's color gel chart, try to ascertain the color the client is trying to reach. This could help to better understand how much "decolorization" will be necessary, and the proportions of Redken product that will be necessary to achieve the correct color.
-
-
3
Determine the level of "lift" necessary to get the desired shade. Each color of hair dye has a lift/deposit ratio. The more the hair color lifts, the less is will deposit, and vice versa. So for example a dark brown color will lay down more color than a more color-stripping strawberry blond color. The more lift needed for the color change, the higher the developer's level of oxidation has to be.
-
4
Select the developer's oxidization using the lift's level as a guide. Developers are categorized by their level of oxidization (measured in volume), which boils down to their ability to lighten the hair. The weakest developer is the 10 volume peroxide, which is used simply to tint a client's hair color. Levels of developer increase incrementally by 10, thus there are volume levels of 20, 30 and 40---the maximum Redken developer level. The most commonly used volume level is 20, as it is potent enough to cover grays.
-
5
Asses the ratio of Redken color gels and developer, then measure the products using the industry standard metric measuring cup. Redken has two types of color gels: normal color gels and fashion gels. The normal color gels require a 1:1 ratio of gel and developer, whereas the fashion gels need the more potent 2:1 ratio. Thus, two ounces of regular color gels will require two ounces of developer, but the fashion gels will need four.
-
6
Mix the measured quantities of color gel and developer in a plastic bowl. The use of a long tail dye brush is perfect here, as it will also be one of the main tools used to apply the dye to the clients hair. Once the calculated chemicals are completely mixed in the bowl, the hair color is ready for application.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Take into account the percentage of gray hairs, texture, density and condition, as these factors will affect the color proportions. Large amounts of grays or thick hair might require a slightly different color gel or a slightly higher developer volume.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit hair image by Dubravko Grakalic from Fotolia.com
More Like This
Comments
-
Organic Color Systems is a NATURAL Hair Color.
