How to Stitch Leather Wallets

A hand-sewn leather wallet can be a work of art.

Hand stitching is a basic but essential technique to complete a leather wallet and to use on many other leather craft projects. While machine sewing is quick and easy, hand sewing can produce leather goods that are more durable. In addition, the knowledge of hand stitching will enable you to sew and repair certain things that a machine can’t. Among the various types of stitches, back stitch has proved to be both strong and flexible.

Things You'll Need

• Pencil
• Overstitch wheel
• Waxed linen thread
• Scissors
• Wood block
• Paring knife
• Awl

Instructions

Prepare for Stitching

1. Align pre-cut pieces of leather that will form the wallet cover and its inner pocket.

2. Mark with a sharp pencil a line 1/8 inch from the edge on the top side of the wallet cover.

3. Run an overstitch wheel along the penciled line to create impressions of evenly spaced stitch marks as a guide. This tool has a wood handle and a metal wheel with pointed teeth.

4. Measure and cut a piece of waxed linen thread three times the length of the distance you will stitch.

5. Lay one end of the thread on a wood block.

6. Place the blade of a paring knife on the thread, applying only light pressure. Pull the other end of the thread toward you. Continue pulling the thread toward you until the thread end unravels.

7. Push the thread through the eye of the needle and leave 2 inches on one end.

8. Pierce the needle point on the other side of the thread and create an eye-shaped opening.

9. Push the needle through the eye you just pierced as far as the needle and thread can go. This will lock the short end of the thread in place.

Back Stitching

1. Pierce the first three holes through the wallet’s leather pieces with an awl.

2. Pass the needle and thread through the second hole from the underside of the wallet, then push the needle through the first hole from the top side.

3. Pass the needle and thread through the third hole from the underside of the wallet.

4. Push the needle through the second hole from the top side. This will create smaller stitches on the top side of the wallet and overlapping stitches on the reverse side.

5. Pierce the next hole with the awl and pass the thread through this hole from the underside. Repeat these back stitching steps until you reach the final hole.

6. Tie your knot on the back side of the wallet and cut the thread with scissors.

Tips & Warnings

• Practice back stitches on leather scraps before tackling your wallet project.

References

• “The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects”; Valerie Michael; 1993
• “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”; Al Stohlman; 1977

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish