How to Properly Use a Cast Iron Bullet Mold

Many muzzle-loading rifle and pistol enthusiasts also like to cast their own bullets.

One way to make shooting a muzzle-loading gun feel even more authentic is to cast your own bullets for it. Casting bullets is much like casting lead fishing tackle or toy soldiers, and since you're working with molten lead, both carry the same need for caution and proper preparation. You'll want to devote a great deal of attention to finishing your bullets once you've demolded them, because even small flaws can send a speeding bullet wildly off course.

Things You'll Need

• Bullet mold
• Mold handle
• Mold prep compound
• Electric lead heater
• Lead ladel
• Leather gloves
• Bullet lead-alloy ingots
• Lead flux (e.g. Marvelux)
• Coffee can or other heat-proof container
• 1-inch hardwood dowel or broom handle, 14 inches long
• Padding (old towel, t-shirt, rags, etc.)

Instructions

1. Turn on the lead heater and add the appropriate number of lead ingots, depending on the number of bullets you're planning to cast.

2. Set the mold blocks on top of the heater to pre-heat.

3. Flux the molten lead by adding a pea-sized amount of flux compound into the melting pot and stirring it in thoroughly with the ladel. Allow the melted flux to rise back to the top, then skim it off with the ladel and discard it into the coffee can.

4. Apply a small amount of mold prep compound on the inside surface of the bullet mold, following the manufacturer's directions. Assemble the mold and attach the handle.

5. Cast the bullets by dipping a ladel full of molten lead and pouring it slowly and carefully into the mold through the sprue plate, which is a detachable plate assembled at the top of the mold.

6. Watch the sprue (which is the excess lead at the top of the mold) until it has become completely solid. Strike the overhanging portion of the sprue plate with the dowel or broom handle to knock off the sprue.

7. Open the bullet mold over a padded surface. If the bullet does not drop out, tap the mold handle at the hinge with the dowel or broom handle to release the bullet.

8. Allow the bullets to cool. Inspect the bullet for cracks, wrinkles, voids and other irregularities. Return defective bullets to the lead heater to remelt.

9. Turn the lead heater off after you've finished pouring bullets.

Tips & Warnings

• You can create your own ammunition alloys by mixing one part of tin to 10 parts of lead (for rifle bullets) or 20 parts of lead (for pistol bullets).

• If the sprue plate doesn't knock off all the excess lead on your bullets, tighten it so it moves more firmly against the top of the mold block.

• An alternative to mold prep is to "smoke" the mold by running a lighted match under both halves, leaving a deposit of black soot on the inside of the mold.

• Lead fumes are highly toxic. Never cast lead without using good ventilation, such as a room with open windows and fans or casting outside.

• Molten lead is extremely hot and will cause dangerous burns to skin and clothing. Use extreme caution and protective gloves when casting lead.

• Never allow water to come into contact with molten lead; it will vaporize and spatter.

• Bullet molds remain hot for many minutes after the bullet has been removed. Never touch the mold with your bare skin until it has thoroughly cooled.

References

• Guns Magazine: Cast Bullet Primer
• Lee Precision Molds: Bullet Mold Instructions
• Hoch Bullet Moulds: Casting Instructions

Resources

• Outdoor Life: Live Hunt: Muzzleloader Introduction