How to Build Leaning Shelving

Leaning shelving can add a creative touch to any room. A leaning shelf leans into the wall at a 10 degree angle and can be secured to a wall with heavy-duty wall hangers. Nonskid pads can be placed on the bottom of the shelf to prevent sliding. Building leaning shelving can be a time-consuming project because it requires many pieces to be cut. The outcome is worth the time and effort if you want a nontraditional yet functional shelf. This project requires some carpentry skill and concentration.

Things You'll Need

• 3/4-inch-thick Plywood
• Measuring tape
• Miter saw
• Angle square
• Sandpaper
• Iron-on adhesive veneer tape
• Iron
• Wood glue
• Air nailer
• Finishing nails
• 1-by-3-inch spacing blocks
• Spring clamps
• Pipe clamp
• Heavy weight wall hangers
• Hammer
• Nails
• Nonskid pads

Instructions

1. Cut two upright pieces to 3 1/2 by 84 inches out of 3/4-inch-thick plywood. Cut a 10 percent angle, tapering it from the top down with an angle square on the two uprights that will be parallel to one another when the shelf stands upright. Cut the 10 percent taper off, leaving slightly angled pieces. Cut a 10 degree angle off the bottoms of the uprights that will be touching the floor when the unit is assembled.

2. Measure and cut the 3/4-inch-thick plywood for all pieces of the shelf with a miter saw. Cut shelves A-E (A being the top shelf descending to E being the bottom shelf) to 30 1/2 inches long and cut the width of shelf A to 3 3/8 inches, shelf B to 5 3/4 inches, shelf C to 8 3/16 inches, shelf D to 10 5/8 inches and shelf E to 13 inches. Cut two end rails for each shelf, making a total of 10. Cut each end rail to 1 inch longer than the width of the shelf they will fit. Cut two top cleats to 3 1/2 by 14 1/2 and cut the top ends to a 10 degree taper on their back edges and cut a 10 degree angle off the bottoms. Cut eight step cleats to 3 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches and cut a 10 degree angle off both ends. Cut two base cleats to 3/4 by 3 1/2 by 10 inches cut a 10 degree angle off both ends. Cut five back of the shelf rails to 2 1/2 by 30 1/2 inches. Separate all the pieces into piles or label each piece.

3. Sand all edges of each piece with sandpaper until smooth if you wish to paint or stain the shelf. Iron on adhesive veneer tape to the front edges of all the shelves if you are not painting or staining and want a finished look.

4. Lay an upright flat. Match one of the tapered top cleats to the tapered end of the upright supports so that when laid flat on top of one another, the tapers line up. Attach the top cleat flat on top of its matched tapered upright with wood glue and an air nailer loaded with finishing nails.

5. Place a 1-by-3-inch spacer block below the top cleat. Attach four step cleats with wood glue and an air nailer loaded with finishing nails by spacing each one with a 1-by-3-inch spacer block the length of the upright supports. Remove and reuse the spacer blocks after cleats are attached.

6. Attach a base cleat with wood glue and an air nailer loaded with finishing nails after the fourth step cleat, space with a one by three inch spacer block. Repeat placing cleats on to the second upright support in the same fashion.

7. Match up the end rails with the shelves and attach one end rail to each of the ends of the matching shelf with wood glue and an air nailer loaded with finishing nails. Cut 10 degrees off of both of the front ends of the end rails. Attach the back of the shelf rails to the backs of the shelves with wood glue and an air nailer loaded with finishing nails by butting its ends in between the two end rails closest to the ends that were not cut by 10 degrees.

8. Set the shelves one at a time into the gaps in between the step cleats on an upright and clamp each shelf with a spring clamp. Align all shelves so the back of the shelf rails are closest to the top tapper of the upright and the open end of each shelf is opposite of the top tapper. Set the unit on the floor so the upright is flat while the shelves are pointing up.

9. Spread wood glue on the second upright into gaps in between the step cleats. Face the second upright so it is parallel with the other upright and the gaps are pointing down on to the ends of the shelves. Set the second upright down on to the ends of the shelves so the shelves fill the upright's gaps. Attach the shelves to the second upright with finishing nails and an air nailer.

10. Flip the unit over so the second upright is on the floor and the first upright is atop the shelves. Remove the spring clamps from the shelves and remove the first upright. Spread wood glue in to the gaps in between the step cleats on the first upright. Face the first upright so it is parallel with the second upright and the gaps are pointing down on to the ends of the shelves. Set the first upright down onto the ends of the shelves so the shelves fill the upright's gaps. Attach the shelves to the first upright with finishing nails and an air nailer.

11. Place the shelf unit against a wall immediately so it is square. Clamp the unit with a pipe clamp across the front of the shelf until the glue dries.

12. Secure the tapered end of the uprights to the wall with heavyweight wall hangers attached to the upright's tapers then hooked onto nails hammered into the wall's studs. Place nonskid pads on the bottoms of the bases to help prevent the shelf from sliding.

Tips & Warnings

• Saws and air nailers are dangerous. Use caution when working with or around power tools.

References

• "Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual"; readers Digest; 2005
• "Quick & Easy Furniture You Can Build With Dimensional Lumber"; Blair Howard; 2000