Directions for Building Field Easels

Capture the beauty of the outdoors.

A field easel is an essential when painting outside of your home or studio. You want one that is stable, lightweight and adjustable to meet the variation in terrain that you can be sure to encounter. Making your own allows you to fit it to your needs rather than being a "one size fits all" model. You also can modify the basic easel to add such things as a work surface for paints and brushes.

Things You'll Need

• 3 poplar dowels, 1 inch square and 4 feet long
• Saw
• Drill with 1/4-inch drill bit
• 4-inch carriage bolt (1/4-20)
• Pencil
• 3 poplar dowels, 1 inch round and 3 feet long
• 7 washers, 1/4 inch
• 7 wing nuts (1/4-20)
• 4 2 1/2-inch carriage bolts (1/4-20)
• 3 1-inch rubber cane tips
• 1-by-3-inch board, 3 feet long
• 1/4-round molding, 3 feet long
• Brads
• 2 4 1/2-inch carriage bolts (1/4-20)
• 1 small eye hook
• 2 small cup hooks
• Chain rated for 25 pounds

Instructions

1. Cut a 15-degree angle in the side of two of the square dowels, angled so the dowels come to a point at one end. Start the cut a third in across the width of the dowel and angle down, so you have a flat surface about 1 1/2 inches along the side of each dowel.

2. Put the uncut square dowel between the two angle cuts, and drill a 1/4-inch hole through all three. Check that the holes line up by putting the 4-inch bolt through all three holes. Make minor adjustments as needed.

3. Mark the outside of the free end of the two angled pieces while they are temporarily together. Separate them and make six marks for holes on the outer side starting 2 inches up from the bottom. Space the marks every 2 inches. Drill completely through with a 1/4-inch drill bit.

4. Mark two holes in the sides of the round dowels. Start 2 inches from the top and space the marks 2 inches apart. Drill completely though using a 1/4-inch drill bit.

5. Place the three square dowels together with the angle cuts against the center dowel to form the pivot point. Put the 4-inch carriage bolt through the three holes, add a washer and then the wing nut. The two outer dowels will be the front legs of the easel. The center one moves back to form the triangular base.

6. Align the two holes in the round dowels with the two center holes in the lower portion of the square dowels. Put the 2 1/2-inch bolts through the holes and secure them with the washers and wing nuts. Place the rubber tips on the bottom of each 1 inch-round dowel.

7. Place the 1-by-3-inch board across the two front legs where the bottom of your canvas would be. Check that it is level and mark the position on both legs. Drill 1/4-inch holes through the front of the legs 1/2 inch below your marks.

8. Drill two holes on the 1-inch face through the width of the 1-by-3-inch board to line up with the holes drilled in the front of the legs. Attach the 1/4-round molding with brads to the top surface, near the front edge of the 1 by 3. Bolt the shelf to the front legs with the 4 1/2-inch bolts.

9. Attach one end of the chain to an eye hook and screw it into the back of one leg just below the shelf. Screw one cup hook into the back leg and one into the other front leg. Hook the chain to the two cup hooks to lock in the angle of the back leg.

Tips & Warnings

• The pivot and leg bolts should be long enough that you only have to loosen them to fold the easel. You will have to remove the shelf before folding, though.

Resources

• "Easel in the Field: The Life of McIntosh Patrick"; Ron Thompson; 2000