How do I Plant Seeds and Aerate a Lawn?

Grass seeds sprout within a week to 10 days.

How you go about sowing seeds depends on the crop you're growing, the climate, the soil, and the size of the seed. Planting grass seeds, for instance, is a simple process. In essence, you just spread them over the ground. But since you would also like to have a nice lawn for your efforts, the steps you take before---preparing the soil---and after---aerating the lawn---have great impact on whether your seeds germinate and whether the grass continues to thrive.

Things You'll Need

• Pick axe
• Trowel
• Plastic bag
• Soil amendments
• Compost
• Shovel
• Garden fork
• Straw mulch
• Water

Instructions

1. Turn the soil with a pick axe or rent a rototiller if you have a large seedbed to prepare. Remove weeds, roots and rocks from the area as you break the ground surface to a depth of 4 inches.

2. Collect a soil sample with a trowel and place it in a clean plastic bag. Submit it to your state's cooperative extension office for testing. Call ahead to find out the cost and get any specific instructions.

3. Read the result of your soil test. It tells you what nutrients your soil lacks. It also explains which amendments and what amount of each you need to apply to the soil to make it ready for the type of grass you're growing.

4. Incorporate the amendments recommended into the soil. In addition, spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or manure on the surface and work it in with a garden fork and shovel. The organic matter adds nutrients as well as improves drainage and air circulation underground.

5. Rake the soil to level it. If you have access to a lawn roller, fill it halfway with water and run it over the seedbed to create as much of an even planting surface as you can.

6. Measure out half of your grass seed and put it in a spreader. Broadcast it over the prepared seedbed from east to west. Broadcast the remaining seed from north to south. Sowing the seeds in two directions prevents areas devoid of seeds.

7. Cover the seeds with a layer of straw mulch. One bale is enough for 1,000 square feet. This reduces bird pecking and evaporation. It also helps to keep the seeds in good contact with the soil surface for rooting.

8. Irrigate your lawn with superficial watering sessions up to three times a day. The seeds don't have roots at this point, so the water doesn't have to reach deep, but if the seeds dry up, they won't germinate. Keep seeds consistently moist. Grass seedlings usually sprout within seven to 10 days.

9. Maintain your lawn by following the specific requirements for the species of grass you planted. Aeration, however, is something that benefits every lawn. Walk up and down over the lawn, sticking a garden fork a few inches deep into the ground. Aerating machines are also available for rent at hardware stores. As you run them, they pull plugs of soil and grass out of the ground. The holes your garden fork or the machine makes are vital passageways for water, nutrients and air. Muddy spots in the lawn after you water, where nothing grows and the water doesn't drain, are signs it's time to aerate.

Tips & Warnings

• Some cooperative extension offices don't perform soil tests themselves, but refer gardeners to labs that do. Call ahead for information.

References

• Washington State University Extension: Seed or Sod for New Lawns?
• University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension: Installing and maintaining a Sod Lawn
• Virginia Cooperative Extension: Establishing Lawns
• University of Florida IFAS Extension: Hillsborough County: Drought Conditioning Your Tampa Bay Area Lawn