How to Build a Free-Standing Privacy Fence

A privacy fence can be decorative or utilitarian, depending on the homeowner's tastes.

The old saying, "Good fences make good neighbors," is not always true. However, if you have a pool, spa, or just like to sunbathe, a privacy fence may be a necessity for your peace of mind. Privacy fences can range from a tall hedge to a 6-foot tall solid fence. If you only need a free-standing panel to block the neighbor's view of your patio, a simple structure of posts, stringers, wire fencing and evergreen vines is relatively inexpensive and easy to build.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• 2 posts, 4 inch by 4 inch, 8 feet long
• 2 bags fast-setting concrete mix
• Level
• 2 boards, 2 inch by 4 inch, 8 feet long
• 1 roll wire fencing, 6-feet tall
• Posthole digger
• Screws
• Drill with screwdriver bit
• Staple gun
• Wire cutter
• Evergreen vines
• Shovel

Instructions

1. Measure the space where you plan to install the privacy fence. Assuming that it's 8 feet wide, dig a 30-inch deep hole at each end. Using a post hole digger is easier than using a shovel. Pour 4 to 6 inches of gravel into the bottom of each hole and tamp firmly. Fill the hole halfway with water. Wait until the water soaks into the soil before proceeding with the next step.

2. Place the first post in the hole. While your helper is holding the post, pour a bag of concrete mix into the hole around the post. Using a level, make sure the post is vertical. Add a gallon of water to the hole. It doesn't have to be mixed, as the concrete will also draw moisture from the soil. Measure again, making sure that there are 8 feet between the two posts, and install the second post.

3. Lay the 2-inch by 4-inch boards across a couple of sawhorses, chairs or a table. On the 2-inch-wide side, pre-drill two holes at a 45-degree angle. The holes should start at about 1 1/2 inches from the end of the board and go through the end. Repeat on the other side, then at the opposite end of the board. There should be four pre-drilled holes on each end of the stringer.

4. Install the first 2-inch by 4-inch board, or stringer, at the top of the posts. The stringer should fit exactly between the posts. Have your helper hold the board in place, level with the top of the posts, while you use the drill to screw the board to the post, using the pre-drilled holes. If necessary, screw short pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch board to the posts under the top stringer for extra support. Screw the second stringer to the posts, 2 to 4 inches above the ground.

5. Stretch the wire fencing between the posts. Using a staple gun, staple the wire to the top stringer. If necessary, use a hammer to secure the staples. Pull the wire straight down and secure each bottom corner. Staple across the bottom, securing the wire to the stringer, then attach the sides of the wire fencing to each post. Cut excess fencing with wire cutters and remove.

6. Plant three evergreen vines, equidistant between the posts, and wind the vines up through the wire. Depending on the variety you chose, the vines will fill in the space in one or two seasons. For quick screening, plant deciduous vines such as morning glory or sweet peas.

Tips & Warnings

• Reed fencing can be used instead of wire.

• Grapevines provide fruit as well as privacy. Squash and other vegetables can also be grown on a wire fence.

• If you live within a homeowner's association, check the restrictions before building or planting a privacy fence.

• Use gloves, safety glasses and other safety equipment when installing a privacy fence.

• Heavy vines such as wisteria may require setting the posts at 4- to 6-foot intervals.

References

• Quikrete: Setting Posts
• Home Depot: Building a Wire Fence

Resources

• Backyard Gardener: Fence Design
• University of Vermont Extension Department of Plant and Soil Science: Grow Vertical Vegetables
• Hammer Zone: Backyard Privacy
• YouTube: A creative privacy screen fence