How to Clip a Bolt in Rock Climbing

Clipping a bolt is easy, but when you're gripped and running out of strength it can be the one thing between you and a fall, so do it right.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Climbing Gear
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Helmets
• Climbing Ropes
• Climbing Shoes

1. Set up your quickdraw so that the top carabiner is facing you and the bottom carabiner is facing away from you. The gates should face in opposite directions.

2. Unclip the quickdraw from your harness or gear sling and clip the bolt with the top carabiner gate facing you - and the bottom carabiner still facing away from you.

3. Grab your rope below the tie-in knot with your thumb pointing downward.

4. Pull the rope up to the bottom carabiner on the quickdraw and release your index finger and thumb while continuing to hold the rope with your pinky, ring and middle fingers.

5. Hold the carabiner down with your thumb and flip the rope into the carabiner, pushing it through the carabiner gate with your index finger.

6. When you clip the rope, it should travel from your harness to the outside of the carabiner through the carabiner to the rock side of the carabiner and down to the ground.

Tips & Warnings

• Pull up an arm's length of rope, hold it with your teeth, then reach down and pull up another arm load of slack to clip the carabiner in order to get enough slack in the rope to reach the bolt and ensure that you can reach the carabiner.
• Practice the clipping move so that when you find yourself on lead and running out of gas you can confidently clip the bolt.
• If you clip the rope "backwards" through the carabiner - from rock side to outside - and the carabiner is a "bent gate" style carabiner, the rope could unclip itself from the carabiner in the event of a lead fall. Be sure the rope travels from the ground through the backside of the carabiner and out to your harness.
• Don't fall when you have all this slack pulled out. Your fall will be 6-10 feet longer as a result of the slack, and could result in a ground fall if you are on a short route.
• Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.

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[stayinrhythm]

on 10/14/2007 If you have a pull up bar at home, set up a quick draw on it and practice clipping while hanging.

on 7/9/2006 Holding the rope with your teeth is a bad habit and should be avoided, as it has been known to cause a loss of teeth in a fall or slip.

on 3/16/2006 There are many hand techniques for clipping bolts and gear safely and efficiently. Learn as many as you can, but practice only a few so that they become second nature. Use the ones you are most familiar with, unless the situation absolutely demands otherwise. Don't fumble about looking for the most efficient movement. Clipping quickly and smoothly can mean the difference between pulling the crux, and hang-dogging or a taking big whipper.

on 3/16/2006 If you need to pull up more than an arm's length, do not hold the rope in your bare teeth! An unexpected fall may cause you to bite down in panic, and a whipping rope could rip those choppers right out of your head. Instead, cover your teeth with your lips, and then put the rope between them. Save that smile.

on 11/22/2005 To avoid the rope unclipping itself during a fall, remember when properly clipped, the rope should go "from the rock, out of the carabineer, to you."