How to Place a Stopper in Rock Climbing
Placing stoppers on a rock climb is a necessary part of your crack protection skill repertoire.
- Difficulty:
- Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need
- Climbing Gear
- Climbing Harnesses
- Climbing Helmets
- Climbing Ropes
- Climbing Shoes
- Racks Of Lead Climbing Equipment
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1
Find a location for the stopper. The ideal location is a straight-in crack with a slight taper pointing downward.
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2
Select the correct size stopper for the crack.
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3
Slot the stopper into the crack at its wide point.
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4
Pull the stopper gently down into the taper of the crack until it seats with both sides snugly fitting into the taper.
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5
Give the stopper a tug to seat it. Don't pull so hard that the stopper becomes difficult to get out.
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6
Clip a sling or quick draw to the stopper.
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1
Tips & Warnings
The preferred method for placing a stopper is by slotting it into the crack in its narrow aspect, but you can also place a stopper sideways in the crack with its broad aspect.
The stopper should be pointing in the direction of the fall.
Once the stopper is placed, lift the wire end to the stopper to test its seating. The stopper should not rotate in the crack.
It's easy to weld a stopper, or get it so wedged in a crack that it will not come out. The key is to get it set so that it will not come out as you climb or if you fall, but so that it will still be humanly possible to retrieve it from the crack.
Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.
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Comments
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rgold
Mar 13, 2010
The placement illustrated in diagram 4 is mediocre at best. First of all, as mentioned by Schopp, the nut is oriented straight down and so will not resist outward forces, either from a falling leader who is separated from the rock face or from the rope below pulling outward because of placement locations below. But even worse, the illustrated placement has almost no contact on its left side; the only contact with the rock is at the very bottom. This means reduced strength and greatly reduced security, since the bottom contact point will provide a rotation point for the nut lifting. It is hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like a smaller size placed just below the illustrated placement might be a lot better. Moral: this ain't the place to learn a skill this critical.
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joel.schopp
Jul 02, 2007
Great article - it's worth mentioning that the direction of the fall is not only down, but also out away from the rock. So the stopper needs to be placed to resist not just the verticl force of the fall but the horizontal force as well.
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joel.schopp
Jul 02, 2007
Great article - it's worth mentioning that the direction of the fall is not only down, but also out away from the rock. So the stopper needs to be placed to resist not just the verticl force of the fall but the horizontal force as well.
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Jul 09, 2006
It's always a good idea to double protect your first placement. Once for the downward force of the fall, and once for the upward force that the rope will place on it if there is a fall (once protection is placed above it).
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Jul 09, 2006
It's always a good idea to double protect your first placement. Once for the downward force of the fall, and once for the upward force that the rope will place on it if there is a fall (once protection is placed above it).
