How to Climb a Jam Crack in Rock Climbing

Jam-crack climbing techniques are critical for crack climbs of just about any difficulty.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You’ll Need:

• Climbing Gear
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Helmets
• Climbing Ropes
• Climbing Shoes

Finger Jam Technique

1. Find a suitable finger crack. A finger crack is just large enough to fit your fingers into.
2. Slide the fingers of your top hand in the crack just above your head, with your thumb pointing down.
3. Slide the fingers of your bottom hand in the crack in the same way.
4. Drop your elbow down toward your side, camming your fingers in the crack. While this may be unpleasant on your fingers, it makes for a solid grip.
5. Use your feet on the face or in the crack, whichever is better.
6. Push up with your feet and pull with your hands, keeping the elbow dropped and the fingers cammed.
7. Move your hands and feet up and repeat.

Hand Crack Technique

8. Find a suitable hand crack. A hand crack will accept most or all of your hand snugly.
9. Slide your top hand in the crack thumbs down.
10. Slide your bottom hand in the crack either thumbs down or thumbs up.
11. Drop your elbow down to your side to cam your hand in the crack.
12. Place your feet in the crack sideways with the big toes up.
13. Stand up on your feet while you pull up with your hands.
14. Alternate hands and feet as you ascend.

Fist Crack Technique

15. Find a suitable fist crack. A fist crack is 3 to 4 inches wide and will be too big for your hand but too small for your made fist going straight in. It's the most difficult of the jam crack techniques, and these routes often lead to wider climbing known as off-width.
16. Place your hand straight in the crack, palm down.
17. Close your hand to make a fist. The sides of your fist should press very tightly against the side walls of the crack. If your fist doesn't fit tightly in the crack, it's probably too wide for a fist jam.
18. Place your feet in the crack.
19. Stand up on your feet as you pull with your hands.
20. Alternate hands as you ascend.

Tips & Warnings

• If you're moving up a continuous crack, it may be helpful to use your lower hand in a thumbs-up position, and then shuffle your hands along in the crack. This is especially useful in cracks that lean in either direction.
• Use athletic tape around your finger digits to protect the skin and give you more tenacity in the crack.
• Finger cracks may be the most difficult because of the lack of footholds. Try to use the side of your toe in the crack if there are no face holds.
• Finger-crack climbing can be painful. Pick an easy climb to start on.
• You can shred your fingers using this technique, so be sure to wear tape.
• Tape is very useful on your hands when hand jamming. It's useful to tape up past your wrists.
• If you're moving up a continuous crack, it may be helpful to use your lower hand in a thumbs-up position, and then shuffle your hands along in the crack. This is especially useful in cracks that lean in either direction.
• Don't get your foot stuck in the crack. This is common and can be a strenuous drain on your climbing effort.
• Hand cracks are strenuous by nature and are even more difficult because of the weight of the gear you have to drag along with you to protect these climbs.
• Fist-crack climbs may require larger gear. Beware of the added weight required to protect these climbs.
• Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.