How to Dye a 100% Polyester Shirt

Polyester is among the most difficult fabrics to dye.

Unlike many other fabrics, dyeing polyester will not work using standard acid or fiber-reactive dyes. It instead requires the use of a special disperse dye. Both the preparation of this dye and the process used to apply it are very delicate, and will require numerous ingredients and great attention to detail.

Things You'll Need

• Disperse dye
• Dye carrier
• Synthrapol
• Distilled white vinegar
• Rubber gloves
• Dye activator or soda ash
• Apron or expendable clothing
• 2 stainless steel or enamel pots (3 to 5 gallons)
• Water thermometer
• Nylon
• Metaphos (optional)

Instructions

1. Clean the polyester for dyeing by washing it in hot water along with synthrapol and 1/2 tsp. soda ash or dye activator. Use 1/2 tsp. synthrapol for every pound of fabric, which ads up to roughly three to four yards. You can do this in a washing machine or on a stove top at 140°F. Remove the polyester from the water and rinse out the cleaning products; if you are using a washing machine, the rinse cycle ought to take care of this. Do not dry the polyester.

2. Stir your dye powder into 1 cup of boiling water, allow it to come down to room temperature and stir it one more time to create disperse dye. The amount of dye powder you use will depend on how dark you wish the polyester to become. Read the instructions on the box to determine how much you should add. Pour 2 tbsp. of dye carrier into a separate cup of boiling water to dilute it. Set these two ingredients aside momentarily; they will be added after the dye bath is prepared.

3. Add 1/2 tsp. synthrapol, 1 tsp. citric acid or 11 tsp. white distilled vinegar, disperse dye and dye carrier to 2-1/2 gal. of water, heated at 120°F. Add 1/2 tsp. metaphos if you are using hard water. When pouring the disperse dye into the water be sure to strain it through nylon (hosiery will work) to remove any chunks of dye powder remaining in the mix. Stir well between each ingredient added to your dye bath.

4. Add the polyester to your dye bath and bring it to a boil, continually but delicately stirring as it heats up. Once the bath has reached its boiling point, allow the fabric to simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, the darker the color the longer. Softly stir the bath occasionally to prevent any inconstancies in the dye.

5. Heat a separate pot of water to 180°F while the polyester is soaking in the dye bath for rinsing. When the fabric is ready, remove it from the bath and put it into the rinsing pot. Water temperature is important here; anything below 180°F will leave a foul smell in the polyester and a residue left over from the dye carrier.

6. Empty the dye bath out, heat water in the leftover pot to 160°F and add 1/2 tsp. synthrapol for washing. Add the polyester to it, stirring occasionally for five to 10 minutes.

7. Rinse the polyester in hot water and squeeze out any remaining liquid. Smell the polyester to make sure that you have washed it properly. If the fabric has a foul smell, you will have to repeat the washing process. If not, you may dry your fabric.

Tips & Warnings

• Be sure to use a water thermometer when preparing your water.

References

• All About Hand Dyeing: Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dye
• Pro Chemical and Dye: Immersion Dyeing Polyester using PROsperse Disperse Dyes
• Inteletex: Polyester Dyeing Made Simple