How to Make Inverted Pleated Drapes

Professional-looking drapes can be made by anyone with basic sewing skills.

Custom draperies are expensive to purchase. However, you can achieve the same professional results with basic sewing skills. Attention to careful measuring and patience are really all that's needed to complete the task.



Start with mounting the rod. The rod can be mounted on the window frame, inside the casing or above the frame. The current trend is to mount the rod high, almost to the ceiling, to make the room appear larger.



When measuring and cutting, lay the fabric on a large, flat surface. Use the floor if necessary.

Things You'll Need

• Straight pins
• Yard stick
• Tape measure
• Tailor's chalk
• Scissors
• Fabric
• Buckram (purchased at the fabric store, used to shape and stiffen the top hem)
• Thread
• Drapery hooks
• Sewing machine
• Iron and ironing board

Instructions

1. Start with a perfect grain line, to ensure that the draperies will hang properly. The "straight grain" is the lengthwise thread that runs parallel to the selvage or finished edge of the fabric. Using this straight grain as your guide, trim the uneven edge of the fabric. You now have two straight edges to work with.

   Drapes may be measured to the windowsill, or to the apron of the window (the trim below the sill), or to the floor, but never at an in-between point.

   The finished length of the drape is measured from the top of the rod to the desired length. Add to this the top and bottom hem allowances. Use six inches for the top and six inches for the bottom hems.

   The finished width is one and one half times the length of the rod plus any overlap per panel. This will accommodate finished side hems, usually two inches of fabric for a one-inch hem on each side.

   Lay the fabric for cutting with the design and/or nap of the fabric facing the same direction for each panel, right side down. Use a yardstick to draw straight cutting lines. Mark with tailor's chalk on the wrong side of the material.

   Measured length + 6 inches + 6 inches = unfinished length.

   Measured width + 2 inches + 2 inches = unfinished width.

2. 

   Keep scissors sharp to avoid damaging material.

   Cut the fabric with sharp scissors to prevent pulling.

   Cut each panel along the measured line.

   If there is a one-way design, mark the top of each panel with either tailor's chalk or use a large safety pin to keep from accidentally reversing a panel.

3. 

   Always press as you sew.

   Turn the side hems under one inch and press. Make another one-inch fold, pin and stitch. Press flat.

4. Make a three-inch fold along the bottom edge, and press, to create bottom hems. A double hem is also preferred for this hem. To add weight so the drape will "hang" properly, fold over another three inches, pin and stitch. Press flat.

5. Fold and press a one half inch hem for the top hem. Fold down another 5 and 1/2 inches, encasing the buckram even with the top edge. Pin, stitch, and press flat.

   Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 for all panels.

6. Plan the pleats in groups of uneven numbers--five, seven, nine or more--depending on what is necessary to take up the fullness of the fabric.

7. Measure the rod space to be covered and subtract this amount from the width of the hemmed drapery, to determine the spacing and number of pleats. The width of the fabric must be distributed evenly between the pleats. The extra fabric is taken up in the pleats.

   Use pins or tailor's chalk to mark the location of the center point of each pleat.

   The first pleat is placed about 3 1/2 inches from the outer edge of the drape. The next is placed the same distance from the inside edge, the third is at the center point between pleats one and two.

   The fourth pleat is positioned between the first and middle pleats and the fifth between the middle and end.

8. 

   Check your machine manual for correct tension and stitch requirements.

   Make the Pleats. Measure three inches on both sides of all center marks. Mark this with chalk or pins. Bring the side marks together with the center, matching to create the pleat. Baste to secure the pleat.

   Do the same for all pleats.

9. 

   You now have professional-looking draperies.

   Remove the pins and machine stitch all pleats.

   Machine stitch across the top and bottom edge of the top heading securing the pleats.

10. Press the completed drapes.

    Attach hooks to fit the rod and hang your new drapes.

Tips & Warnings

• Your local fabric store can be a great resource. New products and techniques are always coming on the market, and many stores offer sewing classes. Most of the people working in the store sew themselves and love to offer help and advice, so don't hesitate to talk with them about your projects.

• Before machine stitiching, read the machine manual for information on correct tension and stitch settings for your fabric. Remember to "press as you sew." This will ensure professional-looking results.

• Fabric choice will determine the ease with which you complete this project. Use medium-weight linens, such as cotton blends. Be wary of obvious one-way designs and fabrics that have pile or nap, as this requires special attention to have all panel designs facing the same direction. Nothing is more discouraging when hanging the finished draperies than to find that one solitary panel hanging up-side-down.

References

• "The Complete Guide to Sewing"; Singer; 1999
• "The Complete Book of Sewing"; DK Publishing; 2003