How to Make a Casual Sport Coat
There are significant differences between the men’s blazer, sport coat and jacket styles. The casual sport coat often has a double pocket flap, is usually cut in a single-breasted silhouette and is made from leisure fabrics such as linen. Although jacket patterns are challenging, by drawing a sketch of the sport coat as well as working with a premade pattern as a base, pattern making and construction will run smoothly.
Things You'll Need
- Premade sport coat pattern
- Drafting pencils
- Ruler
- Dark marker
- French curve ruler
- Scissors
- Notcher
- Outer shell fabric (2 to 3 yards)
- Lining fabric (2 to 3 yards)
- Straight pins
- Interfacing
- Fabric scissors
- Sewing machine
- Iron (optional)
- Fit form (optional)
- Buttonhole foot attachment
- Buttons
- Hand sewing needle
- Thread
Instructions
-
-
1
Trace a front and back panel, lapel and sleeve as well as pocket flap from a premade pattern onto pattern paper. Use your drafting pencils and ruler to define the lines. The premade pattern is the base for your sport coat design.
Although you can opt to make the original pattern, it is challenging at a beginner level. For instance, the lapel pattern must fall naturally around the neck line for ease and comfort. Pocket placement is also essential.
-
2
Trace your lining pattern. Most sport coats are lined. The front jacket pattern generally has a self-fabric facing that is stitched to the lining.
-
-
3
Use a dark marker to copy all notch points onto the retraced pattern, which are markings indicating where to match up fabric parts during construction. For example, the sleeve pattern has one mark to indicate the front of the sleeve’s armhole and two marks for the sleeve’s back. Make sure to mark this to avoid sleeve direction placement errors during construction.
-
4
Shape the pattern according to your design. For example, if you have included a wide lapel as part of your sport coat, shape the wide lapel using your French curve ruler. The same applies for any pocket shape change, if you have changed the pocket placement position, added buttonholes or altered the traced pocket shape according to your design.
-
5
Mark your pocket placement on your front jacket pattern using the dark marker.
-
6
Cut out your pattern pieces with your scissors.
-
7
Notch your patterns with your notcher. This is a sewing tool that punches out the markings for your fabric.
-
8
Pin your patterns to your sport coat’s outer shell fabric and lining fabric with straight pins. If your design includes interfacing, which is fabric used between fabrics to stiffen or reinforce, such as in the lapel, you will also have to cut out the pieces in the interfacing.
-
9
Cut out your sport coat's outer shell and lining with the fabric scissors. (Don't use scissors you've used for non-sewing projects--they will be too dull and will tear the fabric.) If your design includes interfacing, you will have to follow the direction for your brand. For instance, fusible interfacing is applied with a hot iron.
-
10
Pin pieces together, right sides together. This will ensure that you have clean seams when you turn the jacket inside out after construction. Turn the pinned-together pieces inside out. It is beneficial to fit the sport coat on a form for any length adjustments prior to stitching.
-
11
After solving any fit issues, turn the pieces inside out again so that the wrong sides face out. Machine stitch the outer shell and lining separately. Stitch the pockets to the outer shell.
-
12
Pin the outer shell to the lining shell, making sure the wrong sides are facing out. Machine stitch the two shells together, leaving an opening through which to turn the jacket inside out.
-
13
Turn the jacket inside out. The raw seams will be hidden between the lining and outer shell fabric layer.
-
14
Turn in the seams at the opening and sew closed with a blind stitch, a stitch that gives the illusion of disappearing into the fabric. Check your machine’s stitch selector for this finishing stitch type.
-
15
Mark the buttonhole placement on the outer shell with tailor’s chalk. You will need to attach your buttonhole foot to your sewing machine to make the holes. Hand sew your buttons as the finishing touch to your sport coat.
-
1
References
- “The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear;” Lori A. Knowles; 2006
- “Menswear: Suiting the Customer;” Suzanne Boswell; 1993
