How to Refinish Damaged Wood Floors

Hardwood floors normally last as long as the home in which they are installed. Eventually, though, refinishing or refurbishing is necessary. Hardwood floors that are simply dirty can be cleaned with household detergents. However, if stains, discoloration or damage are present, the job gets a little more complicated. The good news is that hardwood floors can be sanded and refinished several times to be brought back to their original state. For laminated wood flooring, hiring a professional is the best option. For real hardwood floors the work can be done by a do-it-yourselfer with the right tools.

Things You'll Need

• Pry bar
• Hammer
• #8 finishing nails
• Latex wood putty
• Putty knife
• Plastic sheeting
• Masking tape
• Dust mask
• Drum sander
• Vibrating sander
• 40-grit sandpaper
• Broom
• Dust pan
• Vacuum
• 60-grit sandpaper
• 80-grit sandpaper
• 100-grit sandpaper
• Edge/orbit sander
• Tack cloth
• Wood stain
• Foam applicator
• Paper towels
• Polyurethane
• Lamb's wool applicator
• 220-grit sandpaper/#000 steel wool

Instructions

1. Remove the shoe molding (generally quarter round molding that is attached to the floor and the baseboards) with a pry bar and hammer. Be careful not to break the molding.

2. Nail down loose floorboards with #8 finishing nails and a hammer. Make sure to nail into a floor joist and not just the subflooring.

3. Hammer in any nails that are sticking up from the flooring. Fill in the holes on top of the nails with latex wood putty and a putty knife.

4. Tape plastic sheeting around doorways, and tape the edges of closet doors to seal closets shut. This will help contain the dust from sanding.

5. Sand the floor using 40-grit sandpaper on the drum sander. Move the sander along the length of the boards in the direction of the wood grain. Wear a dust mask while sanding.

6. Move the sander back and forth, working in one 3-foot area at a time until the entire floor has been sanded with the 40-grit sandpaper. Sweep and vacuum the floor.

7. Sand the floor using 60-grit sandpaper on the drum sander, again working in 3 foot sections and moving with the wood grain. Sweep and vacuum the floor.

8. Sand the floor with 80-grit sandpaper and the vibrating sander. Work in 3-foot sections, moving with the grain. Sweep and vacuum the floor. The vibrating sander smooths out any unevenness created by the drum sander.

9. Sand the floor using 100-grit sandpaper on the vibrating sander. Work in 3-foot sections, with the grain, sanding the entire floor. Sweep and vacuum the floor.

10. Sand the corners and hard-to-reach areas of the floor with an edge or orbit sander. Edge sanders are hard to control, so practice first in a hidden area. Orbit sanders are easier to control, but take more time.

11. Clean the dust produced from the sanding with a vacuum and tack cloth.

12. Apply the wood stain, in the direction of the grain, with a foam applicator. Work in small manageable areas. Wipe off excess wood stain with a paper towel. Allow the wood stain to dry completely.

13. Apply the first coat of polyurethane with a lamb's wool applicator.

14. Sand the floor lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or #000 steel wool. Vacuum up the dust. Apply three more coats of polyurethane if it is oil-based. Water-based polyurethane requires 4 coats.

Tips & Warnings

• Vibrating sander is optional.

References

• "Home Improvement 1-2-3 Expert Advice From The Home Depot"; Meredith Books, 2003
• "Hometime: How To, Flooring-Sanding Floors-Prep"; HomeTime Video Publishing, 2010