How to Make a Western Snap Shirt

Western shirts have several distinctive features that make them stand out from a typical men’s button-down shirt. In particular, the yokes and the snap closures are characteristics of a true Western shirt. Decorative trims are another classic feature. You'll use all three elements in designing a shirt with a pattern created from a basic T-shirt.

Things You'll Need

• Close-fitting T-shirt
• 2 yards fabric for the shirt
• 1/2 yard fabric for contrasting pieces
• 1/2 yard light to medium weight interfacing
• Trims
• 8 snap buttons
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Ruler
• Newspaper
• Pen or pencil
• Fabric marker
• Sewing machine
• Ironing board and iron

Instructions

Preparation

1. Cut the sleeves off the T-shirt at the seams. Cut the sleeves open along the seams.

2. Measure the length of your arm with the tape measure from the top of your shoulder to just above the wrist bone.

3. Lay one of the T-shirt sleeves out flat on the newspaper and trace around it. Extend the length according to the measurement in the previous step. Use the ruler to make straight lines. Mark the pattern piece “sleeve” and cut it out.

4. Draw the yoke on the front and back of the T-shirt. Yokes can be curved, scalloped, straight, or V-shaped. Draw whatever shape you like. Make sure the yoke you draw is evenly balanced across the T-shirt.

5. Cut the T-shirt at the sides and across the shoulder seams. Cut the front of the T-shirt in half lengthwise. Fold the back in half lengthwise and pin at the edges to hold it in place.

6. Lay the folded back piece on the newspaper and trace around it. Label this piece “shirt back.” Also write “place on fold” along the straight edge from the middle of the shirt. To make the shirt tails, extend the center line six to seven inches. Then draw a curve from the extended line to meet the side of the shirt. Cut the pattern piece out of the newspaper.

7. Lay one of the front T-shirt pieces on the newspaper and trace around it. Label this piece “shirt front.” Make the shirt tail for the front the same way you made the shirt back. Cut the pattern piece out of the newspaper.

8. Cut the yoke out of the T-shirt. Lay it out on the newspaper and trace around it. Note that you will only need to trace the front yoke from one side of the front of the T-shirt. The back yoke can be the full back of the T-shirt. Label each piece “front yoke” and “back yoke” accordingly. Cut the two yoke pattern pieces out of the newspaper.

9. Make the rest of the pattern pieces as follows.
   Collar: Draw a rectangle that measures 21 inches long and 4 1/2 inches wide. Cut a “V” shape into the center of the two ends 1 1/2 inches deep.
   Front button strip: Draw a rectangle as long as the front of the shirt and two inches wide.
   Sleeve cuffs: Draw a rectangle 13 inches long and four to five inches wide.

10. Lay all of the pattern pieces on the fabric and cut them out. Note that you should cut all the pieces 1/2 inch outside the pattern pieces to make space for the stitching. The collar, sleeves, shirt front and back, and front button strips should be cut from regular shirt fabric; the yoke pieces and cuffs should be cut from contrasting fabric. Cut two collar pieces, two cuff pieces, two front button strips, two front pieces, and one of everything else.

11. Cut the following pieces from the interfacing: one collar, two cuffs, and two front button pieces.

Assembly

1. Line up the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric with one long edge of the front button strips. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Fold under the long edge where there is no interfacing 1/8 inch and press.

2. Sew the front button strips to the shirt front pieces, right sides together. Machine stitch the front shirt pieces to the button pieces along the edge of the button strip that has the interfacing. Press seams toward the button strips.

3. Fold the front button strips in half lengthwise and match the pressed-under edge with the seam. Press the fold. Pin in place and top stitch along the button strip and shirt seam.

4. Sew shirt front pieces to shirt back at the shoulders, right sides together. Press seams open.

5. Turn bottom edges of the yoke pieces under 1/8 inch and press.

6. Sew yoke fronts to yoke back at the shoulders. Press seams open.

7. Lay the yoke piece on top of the shirt and pin in place. The wrong side of the yokes will lay on top of the right side of the shirt. Machine baste around the neckline and the armhole.

8. Topstitch the yoke onto the shirt at the shoulder seams. Make two rows of stitching, one on each side of the shoulder seams.

9. Add trims to the bottom of the yoke by sandwiching it between the shirt and the yoke. Pin in place and machine stitch.

10. Fuse the interfacing to one half of the collar on the wrong side.

11. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew one long edge and the two ends. Turn right sides out and press the seam.

12. Attach the collar to the shirt at the neckline, right sides together. Only attach the outer piece of collar fabric. Fold the raw edge of the inside collar under 1/8 inch and press. Pin in place and machine stitch.

13. Top stitch around the outer edge of the collar.

14. Attach the snap buttons according to the directions on the package.

15. Trim all loose threads.

Tips & Warnings

• Prewash the fabric before you start working with it.

• Adjust measurements to fit neck and wrist. Width of sleeve cuffs is also flexible.

• Choose lightweight cotton or cotton blends. Denim is a classic favorite for the Western snap shirt.

• If you are using a T-shirt with a ribbed collar binding, cut that off as well when you are making your pattern pieces.

References

• Simplicity Patterns: Western Shirt/Vest Mens Boys
• Pearl Prong Western Snaps Tutorial