How to Install Ceramic Tile Against Laminate Flooring
Installing any type of ceramic tile floor requires a strong and stable subfloor. A tile installation has no flexibility and any movement in the subfloor will create serious problems. While you could glue tile directly to laminate flooring and achieve a good initial bond, this is not a good idea. The laminate may or may not be bonded to the subfloor, and many laminates have a cushioned layer that will create movement. Other methods make the laminate irrelevant and provide a strong and stable surface on which to install ceramic tile. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Metal lath
- Tin snips
- Wood screws
- Screw gun
- Thinset mortar
- Liquid latex
- Notched trowel
- Rubbing stone
- Straight edge
- Tile spacers
- Cutting machine
- Grout pad
- Grout
- Sponge
Instructions
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Preparing the Floor
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1
Lay metal lath out on the laminate flooring. Start with whole sheets where possible and cut in the rest, using the tin snips. Keep the sheets tight against each other but don't allow them to overlap.
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2
Screw in the lath, starting at one end and using the screw gun. Keep pulling the lath back, keeping it taut as you screw in each section. Use screws every 18 to 24 inches. Allow the screw to crimp the lath slightly to ensure a flush installation.
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3
Mix thinset with the liquid latex instead of water. The mixture should be fairly loose. Starting against the wall opposite your door, pour the latex out and spread it with the flat side of your trowel. Push it into the lath, filling all voids. Scrape the flat edge of the trowel across the lath to make a flat, smooth surface. Allow the floor to dry for 24 hours.
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4
Rub across the dry mortar with the rubbing stone to smooth out any ridges or bumps.
Installing Tile
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5
Mix thinset again, using water this time. Start against the wall opposite the door and begin spreading the thinset on the prepared floor. Use the flat edge of the trowel to force contact with the floor and achieve a good bond. Pull back across, using the notched side to create your setting bed.
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6
Lay whole tiles against the wall, pushing down slightly to grab the thinset mortar. Lay a few rows to get started, using tile spacers between the tiles. Use the straight edge along the outside edge of the rows you have installed to ensure you are starting off straight.
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7
Cut tiles at the end of these rows with a cutting machine, placing the cut edge against the wall. Continue in this fashion backing out of the room, checking the tile with the straight edge every few rows. At the wall with the door, turn back toward the door, installing the last few tiles and cutting against this wall if necessary. Allow the thinset to dry for 24 hours.
Grouting tile
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8
Mix grout according to manufacturer's instructions in a clean bucket. Spread the grout, using the grout pad. Hold the pad at a 45-degree angle to the floor, pushing it into the joints. Hold the pad at a 90-degree angle and pull back across the floor, pulling excess grout off as you go. Work in small sections that you can easily reach.
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9
Wash the excess grout off the tile with a damp sponge, smoothing the joints at the same time. As the grout dries to a haze on the tile, wash it again with clean water. Work your way back out of the room as you did installing the tile.
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10
Buff the tile with a clean, dry towel. If any haze remains, wash again with clean water, then buff again.
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1
Tips & Warnings
The wood screws should be at least 3/4 inch and must have a flat head for a flush installation.
If you don't have or want to invest in a screw gun, use a Phillips-head adapter for a drill.
Keep the lath tight as you screw it in. You don't want any bounce in it and it must sit tight to the floor.
Wear heavy gloves and use caution when handling the lath. Cut edges on the metal lath are sharp.
References
- Photo Credit Tiled floor image by Simon Amberly from Fotolia.com