How to Sew Renaissance Clothing

Renaissance costumes, such as this female pirate costume, combine a few staple items.

The Renaissance, a European time period between the 14th and 17th centuries, is often a popular choice for costuming. The period, while encompassing many different fashion styles, is most often characterized by the garb worn at Renaissance fairs. For women, this usually means skirts with blousy chemises. For men, shirts and breeches are most common. Make your own Renaissance clothing by mixing and matching a few staple costume items.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Cotton fabric
• Scissors
• Old T-shirt
• Pins
• Thread
• Home sewing machine
• Cording
• Pants
• Heavy twill breeches fabric
• Skirt fabric

Instructions

Renaissance Shirt or Chemise

1. Measure the distance between your shoulders, and your shoulder and wrist. If you are making a shirt, measure the distance between your shoulder and your thighs. If you are making a chemise, measure the distance between your shoulder and the floor.

2. Add 4 inches to the arm length measurement. Cut two rectangles as long as the arm length measurement and 20 inches wide. These will be the arms.

3. Take an old T-shirt and cut the sleeves off along the armhole seam. Trim the armhole edges of the arms to match the armhole edges of the T-shirt sleeves.

4. Cut two rectangles of fabric as long as your body distance measurement and as wide as your shoulder-to-shoulder measurement plus 3 inches. Trim the side edges of each rectangle to match the side edges of the T-shirt, matching the armhole edges.

5. Transfer the T-shirt neckline to the top edges of the rectangles. Cut the neckline slightly larger. Make a 3-inch vertical cut at the center front of the neckline.

6. Sew the shoulder edges of the body rectangles together, 1/2 inch away from the edges. Sew the side seams of the body rectangles together, 1/2 inch away from the edges. Leave the armhole edges and neckline alone.

7. Sew the side edges of the sleeve pieces together, 1/2 inch away from the edges. Stop sewing 4 inches from the sleeve ends. Turn the open edges under 1/2 inch and sew them down.

8. Turn the sleeve ends under 1 inch and sew them down. Turn the bottom of the body under 1 inch and sew it down. Insert the armhole edges of the sleeves into the body and sew them together, 1/2 inch away from the edges.

9. Turn the vertical cut at the neckline under 1/4 inch on each side and sew them down. Turn the neckline under 1 inch and sew it down. Thread cording through the neckline and sleeve hems.

Renaissance Breeches

1. Create a pattern for your breeches by tracing a pair of pants that fit you. Fold the pants in half along the center back and crotch seams, and trace the shape onto a piece of paper. Crop the legs of your drawing to the knee. Add seam allowances of 1/2 inch to the sides and bottoms.

2. Cut the shape from the paper and pin it to your breeches fabric. Cut four of these shapes from the fabric. Separate them into two groups, so that you have two pieces for each leg.

3. Pin the outside leg seams together on each leg. Sew 1/2 inch away from the edges, stopping 3 inches from the bottom of each leg. Pin the center front and center back seams of one leg to the other leg and sew 1/2 inch away from the edges. Stop 4 inches from the top of the center front seam.

4. Sew the inside leg seams together, 1/2 inch away from the edges. Turn the open center front edges and open leg sides under 1/2 inch and sew them in place. Turn the waistband edge down 1 inch and sew it in place.

5. Turn the leg hems up 1/2 inch and sew them in place. Run cording through the leg hems and waistband, so that you can tie the pieces together.

Renaissance Skirt

1. Measure the distance between your waist and the floor, then measure your waist. Double the waist measurement and add 2 inches to the length measurement.

2. Cut a rectangle of fabric that is as long and wide as your measurements from Step 1. Fold the bottom edge of the rectangle under 1 inch and sew it in place.

3. Sew the side edges of the rectangle together, 1/2 inch away from the edge. Stop 7 inches from the top. Turn the remaining edges under 1/2 inch and sew them down.

4. Turn the top edge of the skirt under 1 inch and sew it down. Thread cording through the top of the skirt.

5. Wear the skirt over a women's chemise or, if you like, a men's shirt. Tie the skirt in the back.

Tips & Warnings

• You can add a separate waistband and cuff pieces to the breeches, if you prefer that style. You can also add buttons to the fly.

• Women may wear bodices over their skirts and chemises.

References

• "Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts"; Marcy Tilton; 1995
• Dawn's Costume Guide: Historical Costume Patterns

Resources

• Dawn's Costume Guide: Renaissance Bodice Instructions
• Costumes.org: The Costumer's Manifesto