How to Make a Water Drip System
Drip systems originated in the 1960s when farmers in drought-prone localities developed them to improve crop yield while lowering water consumption. Drip technology has evolved over the years, and the quality of tubing and drip components has vastly improved. Today, this technology is widely available so that farmers and hobby gardeners alike can install an efficient system without spending much money. This benefits not only the gardens, but also the community, which saves water in the long run. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- 5-gallon bucket
- Backflow preventer
- Timer (optional)
- Filter
- Pressure regulator
- 1/2-inch tubing adaptor
- 1/2-inch polytube
- Stakes
- Hole punch
- Utility knife
- Black tape
- 1/4-inch microtube
- Microtube fittings (tees, couplers, elbows and goof plugs)
- Emitters
- Microsprinklers
Instructions
-
Setting up the Supply
-
1
Run water into a 5-gallon bucket for 30 seconds from the spigot that will supply the drip system and measure the volume. Use this number to calculate the number of gallons per hour your system can produce and size the drip system so it uses less than this amount.
-
2
Screw a backflow preventer onto the spigot to prevent soiled water from being siphoned into the house water supply. This is a requirement in some localities.
-
-
3
Screw a timer onto the backflow preventer if you plan to have an automated system. If you have a large area to irrigate, consider using a multi-zone timer so different areas can be watered at different times. This will minimize the amount of water the system uses at one time.
-
4
Screw a filter onto the outlet of the timer. If you use a multi-zone timer, you can connect the outlets with tubing adaptors to make one outlet line. If you do this, connect a single filter to the timer outlet. You may also choose to keep the timer outlets separate, in which case you'll need a separate filter for each outlet.
-
5
Screw a pressure regulator onto each filter in the system. This will maintain a constant pressure in the system so that the water does not blow the emitters off the tubing.
-
6
Screw a 1/2-inch tubing adaptor onto the end of each pressure regulator. This adapter has a compression fitting on the other end so that you can connect 1/2-inch tubing to the water supply.
Running the Drip Lines
-
7
Run 1/2-inch polytube from the water supply to the garden and snake it around the plants, using stakes to hold it in place. This tubing is easier to run if you unroll it and let it sit in the sun for an hour first. Keep the total length of the 1/2-inch line to under 500 feet, less if you are using high-volume emitters or microsprinklers. Cap the end of the line by folding the tubing over and taping it with black tape.
-
8
Punch a hole in the side of the tubing at each location where you plan to install an emitter and insert a 1/4-inch fitting. Use one coupling or elbow for each hole, or use a tee if you plan to supply two emitters from the same hole. Insert the fitting by pushing it into the hole until it snaps. This is easier to do if the 1/2-inch tubing has been softened by the sun.
-
9
Push one end of a length of 1/4-inch microtubing onto the barbed end of each fitting and run it to a plant that is to be irrigated. Use stakes to hold this tubing secure.
-
10
Push an emitter onto the other end of the microtubing. Emitters are sized in the amount of water they put out in gallons per hour, so check on the water needs of the plant when you choose the emitter.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Do not overtighten connections. Most connections on a drip system won't require anything more than hand-tightening.
Keep the spacing of emitters on the 1/2-inch polytube greater than 12 inches.
If you punch a hole in the polytube by mistake, plug it with a goof plug.
Monitor the system frequently, especially if it is on a timer. Even though the line is filtered, emitters often clog up.
References
- Photo Credit Water root irrigation system image by TekinT from Fotolia.com