How to Build a Deck Without Using a Ledger

Backyard decks can be built without ledger boards.

Most decks are attached with ledgers. A ledger board is a horizontal framing member attached to the face of a house, acting as an outside frame. Ledgers require removal of a section of siding and can be challenging. Decks can be built without them, provided posts can be set in the ground within 12 inches of the house wall.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Drill
• Treated deck screws
• Wood stakes
• Mason's twine
• Tape
• Tape measure
• Post hole digger
• 4-by-4 treated lumber posts
• Concrete mix
• Circular saw
• 2-by-8 lumber
• 3-by-1/4-inch lag bolts
• 2-by-6 joist hangers
• 2-by-6 lumber
• 5/4-by-6-inch-by-8-foot treated decking
• Hammer
• Clamps
• Level
• Socket wrench
• Quick square

Instructions

1. Drive one screw into the siding where each corner of the deck will meet the house, at the height of the deck, minus 1¼ inch for decking thickness. Use a drill and assume an 8-by-8-foot deck. Adjust the dimensions accordingly. Measure out from each screw to 9 feet, using a measuring tape, and drive a wooden stake into the ground with a hammer.

2. Stretch mason's twine between each screw and the stake in front of it. Use a string level to level the strings and tie them to the stake at the height of the deck. Measure from the house along each piece of mason's twine. Wrap tape around the twine to mark at 12 inches, 48 inches and 96 inches.

3. Dig post holes under each piece of tape, using the post hole digger. Make holes 10 to 12 inches across, 24 inches deep. Set a 4-by-4-inch treated lumber post in each hole and mark it to the height of the twine. Cut posts at the marked height with a circular saw. Set each post in its hole with ½ bag of concrete.

4. Attach one 8-foot-long 2-by-8 to the outside of each row of posts with 3-inch lag bolts. Stand each post up. Level it front to back, using a level. Use clamps to hold the 2-by-8s to the posts. Add water to the concrete and mix it with scrap lumber. Fill each hole with dirt and pack it tight to hold the post until the concrete hardens.

5. Drill pilot holes in each 2-by-8 in line with each post, two per post, with a ¼-inch bit. Drive ¼-by-3-inch lag bolts through the holes with a hammer, into the post to set them in position. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench the rest of the way.

6. Attach 2-by-6 joist hangers along the 8-foot 2-by-8s every 16 inches, using 1½-inch treated deck screws. Mark the position for each joist hanger with a quick square. Attach one side of each hanger. Leave the remaining side open to receive the 2-by-6 joist. Measure from the house end of the 2-by-8s to line the hangers up in pairs.

7. Set an 8-foot-long 2-by-6 in each pair of brackets. Set the joist in place and pull the side of the bracket into position so that you can screw the bracket to the 2-by-8 to secure it. Use every available screw hole. Set one joist in every pair of brackets.

8. Lay 8-foot-long treated deck boards parallel to the 2-by-8s flush against the house, even with the end of the 2-by-8s. Drive two treated deck screws into each joist, through each deck board. Space between boards the thickness of the quick square. Continue attaching boards until the deck is covered.

References

• "The Complete Guide to Decks;": Black and Decker; Creative Publishing; 2009
• Hammer Zone: Building a Basic Deck