How to Install Canned Lighting
Installing canned lighting can brighten corners, highlight treasured pieces of art, make your room more dramatic and provide additional general task lighting. All these lighting effects can be achieved by installing recessed can lighting throughout your home and choosing a trim that creates the lighting effect you want. Installing remodel canned lighting allows you to install the fixture from within the room rather than from the attic. Make sure you choose the right light bulb to install in your recessed can by following the recommendations of the manufacturer. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Remodel can light fixture
- Single gang "old work" switch box
- Keyhole saw
- 12/2 NM cable
- Phillips or slotted screwdriver
- Electrical tester
- Dual NM wire cutter/stripper
- Orange wire connectors
- Single pole switch
- Single gang switch cover
- 15 amp single pole breaker
Instructions
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1
Mark the location on your ceiling to install the canned lighting. Trace around the template provided with the remodel canned lighting fixture and carefully cut along the trace line with a keyhole saw.
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2
Mark the location to install the switch for your new canned lighting. Trace around the template provided with the single gang "old work" switch box. Cut carefully along the trace line using a keyhole saw.
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3
Pull a length of 12/2 NM cable from the canned lighting location to the switch location. Leave a length of 10-inches of cable exposed at the canned lighting location and 6-inches exposed at the switch location.
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4
Turn the power off to the breaker panel by turning off the main breaker located at the top of the panel. Remove the cover from the main breaker panel to expose all the breakers and the wiring. Test to verify the power is disconnected by placing one prong of an electrical tester on the back screw of any breaker and the other prong to any piece of metal on the breaker panel. If the tester fails to light, then the power has been disconnected correctly.
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5
Pull a length of 12/2 in NM cable from the switch box to the electrical panel box. Leave 6-inches of cable exposed at both locations.
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6
Locate the junction box attached to the remodel fixture. Remove the cover from the junction box by depressing the tab with your thumb. Feed the NM cable through a knockout on the junction box. Use a dual NM wire cutter/stripper to remove 6-inches of exterior sheath off the 12/2 NM cable, exposing the white, black and bare copper wires inside. Strip ½-inch of insulation off the black and white wires.
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7
Locate the black wire inside the junction box and twist an orange wire connector onto both the black wire inside the junction box with the black wire from the NM cable. Locate the two white wires inside the junction box and connect them together with an orange wire connector. Locate the bare copper wire and connect it with the green ground wire inside the junction box using an orange wire connector. Push all wiring inside the junction box and replace the cover.
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8
Install the canned lighting fixture into the ceiling. Slip the can into the ceiling until the lip of the canned lighting fixture fits snug against the ceiling. Locate the four black clips inside the remodel canned lighting fixture. These clips, when locked into place will hold the remodel can into the ceiling. Place a slotted screwdriver into the slot located on the black clip and push up and out until the clip locks into place.
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9
Pull the 12/2 NM cables into the single gang "old work" box through knockouts located at the back of the box. Slip the box into the wall and twist the screws located on the switch box. There are wings attached to the screws and once the screws are turned, the wings flip up behind drywall. Continue twisting the screws until the wings clamp the "old work" box into place.
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10
Strip 4-inches of sheath off the 12/2 NM cable exposing the white, black and bare copper wires. Repeat this for the second set of NM cable inside the switch box. Strip ½-inch of insulation off each black and each white wire.
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11
Locate the two white wires inside the switch box and twist an orange wire connector onto both wires connecting them together. Repeat this connection for the bare copper wires. Push both sets of wires into the switch box. Wrap one black wire around a screw on the right side of the switch. Wrap the other black wire around the remaining screw on the right side of the switch. Tighten the screws to hold the wires onto the switch. Connect the switch to the switch box at the top and the bottom of the box. Cover the switch with a switch cover plate.
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12
Install a 15-amp single-pole circuit breaker into the electrical panel by slipping the breaker underneath the slot located at the back of the breakers. The slot holds all breakers into the breaker panel. Firmly push the front of the breaker over the center buss bar until it snaps into place.
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13
Strip the sheath from the NM cable inside the breaker panel exposing the black, white and bare copper wires. Strip ½- inch of insulation off the black and white wires. Slip the black wire underneath the set screw located at the back of the new breaker and tighten the set screw holding the wire in place.
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14
Connect the white wire to the neutral bar. The neutral bar is located inside the panel box, and all white wires connect to it. Slip the white wire under an empty screw and tighten it. Connect the bare copper wire to the ground bar. The ground bar is similar to the neutral bar but has all bare copper and green wires connected to it. Replace the cover on the panel box and turn the main breaker back on.
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Tips & Warnings
Always test to confirm the electricity has been disconnected to avoid electrical shock.
