How to Sew With an Overlock Machine

Sergers can use up to five threads.

Overlock sewing machines or sergers create finished seams on garments and accessories by wrapping the raw edges in a casing of thread. Unlike regular sewing machines, which have two different threads, overlock machines have between three and five threads. The more threads your machine has, the more stretch your seams will have and the wider your stitches can be. Threading the machine can prove to be the trickiest part. Once you have successfully threaded your serger and learned the basic stitch, you can move on to creating spaghetti straps, decorative stitches and blind hems.

Things You'll Need

• Overlock sewing machine
• 3 to 5 spools serger thread
• 2 serger needles
• Tweezers
• Scissors
• Fabric

Instructions

1. Thread the machine. Make sure your machine is powered off while you thread it. You do not want to accidentally press the foot pedal and move the needle while your hands are near it. Most overlock machines need to be threaded in a certain order, starting with the upperlooper thread. Follow the arrows printed on your machine, which guide you as you thread the upperlooper. Thread the lowerlooper thread second. Follow the arrows on the machine to properly thread the lowerlooper. Finally, thread the needle or needles. If your machine is a two-needle machine, thread the right needle first. You may find that you need to use a pair of tweezers to help you maneuver the thread through tight spots.

2. Adjust your machine's stitch length, if needed. Use a shorter, 2- to 3-mm stitch for lightweight materials such as cotton lawn. For heavy fabrics such as denim, use a stitch that is between 3 and 4 mm.

3. Pull the threads about 6 inches behind the needles. Raise the presser foot and put the fabric underneath. Lower the foot to secure the fabric, then turn the hand wheel on the side of the machine to lower the needle. Turn the machine on, then sew a few inches. If your machine has a knife to trim excess fabric, make sure it is turned on. The excess fabric will fall to the table, so you might want to put a small basket or bin underneath to catch the fabric. When you are done sewing the fabric, continue to sew so that you have a few inches of threads dangling from the fabric. Cut the threads to remove the fabric from the machine.

4. Remove the fabric from the machine and examine it to determine if your machine's tension is right. If the tension is too tight, the fabric will bunch up. If it is too loose, it will look as though the machine skipped stitches or the looped threads will look too big.

5. Adjust the tension dials on your machine, if you need to. Turn the dials up for less tension or down for more. Place the fabric under the presser foot and lower the needle once again. Sew a few more inches to see if the stitches improve. Keep adjusting the tension until you are satisfied with it.

Tips & Warnings

• Make sure you thread the machine in the order specified in your machine's manual. Doing otherwise could prevent the machine from functioning properly.

References

• "Handbook for Compact Overlock Machine"; Brother; 2003
• New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service: Sewing Techniques With an Overlock Machine