A bench to sit on while removing muddy work boots (or snow boots) is a handy piece of furniture for a mud room. You can build your own bench to fit your room dimensions using common power tools and then decorate it to match the décor. These are pioneer type benches, simple but very sturdy.
Things You'll Need
- Measuring tape
- Circular saw
- 2-inch by 12-inch dimensional lumber
- 2-inch by 8-inch dimensional lumber
- Power drill/driver
- 2-1/2 long wood screws
- 2-inch by 2-inch dimensional lumber
- 2-inch long wood screws
- Power sander or sanding block
- Stain or Paint
- Sealer (for stain)
Cut a 2-inch by 12-inch thick dimensional lumber board to the desired bench width. This is your bench seat top. Cut an inch or so off of the four sharp corners of the bench seat top board at a diagonal so the four corners are “dog-eared.”
Cut two 2-inch by 12-inch boards so they are each 18 inches long. These are your bench legs.
Draw two vertical lines on the wide face of one of the bench legs. The left hand line should be located three inches from the left hand side of the bench leg. The right hand side should be located three inches from the right side of the bench leg.
Measure six inches up from the bottom edge of the leg in the middle of the board between the two lines you've drawn. Place a dot at this spot.
Draw a diagonal line from the left hand 3-inch mark at the bottom of the leg up to the center dot. Draw a diagonal line from the right-hand 3-inch mark to the dot. You should have an upside down V shape drawn on the leg board. Cut out this V shape using a saber saw or a circular saw.
Trace this shape onto the second bench leg board and cut out the V in that leg.
Measure a 2-inch by 8-inch dimensional board the same length as your bench top minus eight inches. This is your center board.
Mount one end of the center board inside one of the two leg boards. The center board should be mounted two inches above the V cut in the leg. It should be positioned so the widest part faces the front. Drive two 2-½-inch long wood screws through the leg and into the center board. Repeat on the other leg, ensuring that the center board is located in the exact same location on this leg as it was on the other leg. The center board should be rigidly mounted between the two legs. This is your bench base.
Determine the “cupped” side of the bench top seat board by looking at the sawn end of the board. Look at the way the wood grain runs. You will see a gentle half-circle pattern in the grain. Turn the board so this half circle is arcing down, like a dome, not up like a bowl. The bottom side of the board is the cupped side. Mark the cupped side with an X.
Turn the bench top seat so that the cupped side (with the X) is pointing up towards you. Turn the bench base upside-down and place it on top of the bench top seat board. The open V feet on the legs should be pointing up towards you. Adjust the base so it is equidistant from either end of the bench top seat board.
Cut four small blocks of wood, two inches tall by two inches thick and the same width as the bench legs. Place these blocks on both sides of both legs where the top of the leg meets the bottom of the bench top seat board.
Attach the blocks to the bench base legs from the sides using two-inch wood screws. Drill pilot holes first to avoid splitting the wooden blocks. Attach the blocks to the bench top seat board with two-inch wood screws driven down through the blocks into the seat top. Turn the assembled bench over onto its feet.
Sand, stain or paint your bench to suit.
- "Real Furniture For Everyday Life"; Chris Gleason; 2006
- "Quick and Easy Weekend Woodworking Projects"; Editors of Popular Woodworking Magazine; 2005
- "Building Small Projects"; Fine Woodworking; 2004
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