How to Cut Pants to Hem to the Right Size

To get the best hem length, trim off a precise amount of pant length.

When self-hemming a pair of pants, precision comes first. Though it's easy to trim small amounts of fabric to subtract length, it's practically impossible to add more fabric to pants trimmed too short. A botched measuring job can mean wasted time and money---not to mention a frustrating loss to your wardrobe. To get a pant hem just right, cut carefully and leave enough room for mistakes. For a professional-looking hem, the pros look at the garment and replicate what they see. Home sewers can get the same effect, saving a good amount of money along the way.

Things You'll Need

• Shoes
• Measuring tape
• Tailor's chalk
• Mirror
• Notepad
• Pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Seam ripper or scissor
• Dressmaker pins

Instructions

1. Examine the intact pant hem to get an idea of how the finished product should look. The designer or producer already chose the best hem finish for their pants, so stick with a similar width and style to keep the integrity of the original pattern. Changes to the hem could affect the drape and flow of the garment, so think twice before getting creative.

2. Measure the height of the original hem and write this number down. This will come in handy when cutting excess fabric.

3. Wear the shoes that will most commonly be worn with the pants. Hem placement changes according to heel height, shoe design and personal style, so work around your footwear. If you'll be wearing a variety of shoes, select one that represents an average heel height from the lot.

4. Fold up the pant fabric until the bottom is at the proper length, using dressmaker pins to secure and fit the hem. According to The Best Kept Secret website, your pants should be long enough to cover part of the front of your foot. Stand up straight when looking in the mirror to get the most reliable look.

5. Take off the pants and use a tape measure to see how much needs to be removed. For best results, take measurements of extra fabric in both the front and back of the pant leg, then average them together for a basic amount. Write this number down.

6. Pick apart the hem using a seam ripper or scissors. Press to flatten.

7. Mark chalk dashes along the fabric at the new hemline point with tailor's chalk. This is where the hem should fall after stitching.

8. Draw another line below that has the same distance from the new hem line as the original hem. If the original hem measured 1/2 inch, then draw the line 1/2 inch down from the new hem line. Deeper hemlines for dress pants might require more distance.

9. Cut the pant fabric about 5/8 inches down from the lowest line. This is enough fabric to finish with machine stitching or hand sewing, and allows enough distance to make mistakes. Trim away some length only if working with a very fine or narrow hem.

References

• The Best Kept Secret: How to Hem Your Own Pants