How to Apply Drywall With Tape & Mud
Drywall, also called Sheetrock, is a paper-covered gypsum wallboard product that is used to cover interior walls. It is non-flammable, and provides a flat, paintable surface, When it is properly finished, the surface of drywall is continuous and seamless and provides a suitable substrate for wallpaper and paneling as well as paint. Drywall comes in 4-by-8-foot sheets that you screw or nail to studs and rafters; you seal the edges with paper or fiberglass tape and joint compound, also called mud. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Drywall
- Screw gun
- Drywall screws
- Chalk line
- Utility knife
- Drywall saw
- Drywall tape
- Joint compound (mud)
- Tray
- Metal corner bead
- 4- and 6-inch drywall blades
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Dust mask
Instructions
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Installing Drywall
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1
Attach a sheet of drywall to the house framing by screwing it to the studs, which are usually spaced at 16-inch intervals to accommodate the dimensions of the drywall. Set the drywall against the studs, ensuring there is a wooden surface at each side and end, and partially drive two screws to hold it.
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2
Drive screws around the perimeter of the sheet into the wooden framing at 12-inch intervals. Then drive screws in the middle of the sheet, following the line of each stud or rafter that is behind. Mark this with a chalk line before you drive the screws.
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3
Drive the heads of the screws just past the surface of the paper, without breaking the paper. You can adjust the screw gun to automatically drive the screws to the correct depth. This will save you a lot of time.
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4
Install subsequent sheets so their edges butt up against sheets that are already screwed in. It is not absolutely essential to have tight seams, because you will patch these later with tape and mud. Where a full sheet is not required, cut the drywall to fit.
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5
Cut drywall by scoring the paper surface with a sharp utility knife. Then break the sheet along this line and cut through the back with a knife. Cut notches and holes with a drywall saw, which has a sharp point for driving into the drywall to start the cut.
Finishing Drywall
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6
Use a 4-inch drywall blade to spread mud along a seam that is to be taped. Spread a line of mud that is wider than the tape and has no voids. Then tear off a piece of tape that is as long as the seam and lay it on the mud. Use the blade to scrape along the surface of the tape, flattening it to the surface of the drywall and squeezing excess mud from the behind the tape. Remove this mud with the blade. When you are finished, the tape should be flat against the wall with no bubbles or areas that are lifting off.
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7
Use metal corner beading to cover outside corners. Screw this on with drywall screws, driving them deep enough to make a depression in the edges of the beading, then apply a coat of mud to fill in these depressions.
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8
Cover the heads of all screws with a coat of mud after you are finished with the seams and corners. Then let the mud dry overnight.
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9
Sand the dried mud lightly with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second coat. Use a 6-inch blade to scrape this coat. Your goal is to level the covered areas flush with the wall and to feather the edges so that the patched areas blend. Let this coat also dry overnight.
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10
Sand and apply a third coat, again scraping it with a 6-inch blade. You should be able to blend most seams with three coats, but if not, apply a fourth. Sand the final coat in preparation for painting or wallpaper.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Keep a heater on in the room to speed the drying time of the mud.
Don't try to finish the mudding job with one coat. A thick coat will crack and take forever to dry, so it is better to use several thin coats.
Sanding drywall creates a lot of dust, and while the dust from joint compound isn't toxic, it is an irritant, so wear a dust mask. Protect furniture and woodwork with sheet plastic to avoid a massive clean-up job when you are done.
References
- Photo Credit drywall worker image by Sherri Camp from Fotolia.com
