How to Frame for Attic Access Stairs

With attic access stairs, you can leave your ladder in the garage.

Attic access stairs are handy, as they allow ready access to your attic for storage and maintenance. They come in one standard width and various lengths. All access stairs are designed to fit a 22½-inch-wide rough opening; the length of the opening will depend upon the stairs you've chosen. If the opening length isn't specified, measure the stair unit in the closed position, and add 1 inch; this will be your rough opening length. Since the trusses or attic joists are already in place as part of the roof framing, framing for attic access stairs simply involves building a header--a beam-like support--at each end of the opening.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Circular saw
• Hammer
• Nails
• Framing lumber

Instructions

1. Lay out the access stair location. The stairs are designed to fit between two standard trusses or ceiling joists. If the rough opening length isn't specified, measure the stair unit length with the measuring tape, and add 1 inch to come up with your rough opening length. Make a mark on the ceiling joists or trusses with a pencil to indicate each end of the attic stair unit.

2. Construct a single header for each end of the attic stair opening. Use framing lumber of the same size as the joists or trusses. For trusses, this usually is 2-by-4 or 2-by-6 lumber, for ceiling joists, it's generally 2-by-6 or 2-by-10. Use the circular saw to cut two pieces 22½ inches long.

3. Nail the header in place, using a hammer and nails. Attach the header to the outside of your marks, nailing it to the joists or trusses on each side. Nail through the truss or joist into the end of the header. Since the headers carry little load, there is no need for joist hangers.

Tips & Warnings

• Place the attic stairs where the you'll have clear access to the bottom of the stairs in their "down" position.

• If you put the stairs to close to the eaves, there won't be adequate headroom at the top of the stairs.

• The best location is often in a hallway toward the middle of the house.

• Always wear safety glasses or goggles when using power tools.

• Never cut or modify trusses without an engineer or architect's approval.

References

• "The Very Efficient Carpenter;" Larry Haun; 1998