How to Build a Tall Platform Bed

Platform beds provide the same stability and usability of standard frame beds, but with the added benefit of storage space beneath. They also are good for people with injured knees or backs, providing a higher starting point to get up from in the morning and making it easier to rise with less effort. Platform beds are simple to make and it is a rewarding feeling to know that the bed you sleep on was built with your own hands.

Things You'll Need

• 4 boards, 14 feet long, 1 by 4
• 10-foot-long 1-by-4 board
• 2 boards, 10 feet long, 2 by 4
• 8 wood screws, No. 10, 3 inches
• 66 wood screws, No. 10, 2 inches
• Rotary blade saw
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Drill
• No. 10 pilot bit/countersink

Instructions

1. Measure the wood with a tape measure and cut it with a rotary blade saw. From three of the 14-foot 1-by-4s, cut nine pieces to 4 feet, 7 inches. From the fourth 14-foot 1-by-4, cut one piece 4 feet, 7 inches and five pieces 1 foot, 9 inches. From the 10-foot 1-by-4, cut one piece 4 feet, 7 inches and three pieces at 1 foot, 9 inches. Finally, from each of the 10-foot 2-by-4s, cut one piece at 4 feet and one piece at 5 feet, 11 inches.

2. Measure ¾ inch from each end of the shorter 2-by-4s and mark it with the pencil. Measure ¾ inch from each edge (on the broad face) at the mark you made previously. Pre-drill these eight holes (four holes on each board) with the countersink bit on the drill.

3. Attach the shorter 2-by-4s to the longer 2-by-4s with the 3-inch screws, into a square frame. The ends of the long boards should butt up to the short boards. To ensure that the frame is square, measure diagonally from corner to corner. Gently adjust the frame by hand until those two measurements are the same. To help the frame keep its shape, screw one of the 4-foot, 7-inch slats diagonally across one corner, screwing it down with the drill and 2-inch screws.

4. Turn the frame over so that the brace you just attached is underneath. Stand in front of one of the long sides and grab the tape measure. Hold the tape measure in your left hand and measure the frame from the edge on your right. Make pencil marks at these measurements; 2½ inches, 9¾ inches, 17 inches, 24¼ inches, 31½ inches, 38¾ inches, 46 inches, 53¼ inches, 60½ inches, 67 3/4 inches, and 71½ inches. Draw an X to the right of each of the marks except for the 71½-inch mark; on that mark, draw an X to the left of it. Repeat this process for the second long-sided board, except in reverse, so that you start from the same end of the frame.

5. Place one of the 4-foot, 7-inch slats at your first mark, so that the slat covers the X and is aligned with the pencil marks. Put two 2-inch screws into each end of the slat. Repeat this for each slat at each mark. Remember that one of your slats is holding the frame together and can be retrieved after at least five slats have been screwed in.

6. Butt two of the 1-foot, 9-inch 1-by-4s together along their long edges, at a 90-degree angle, to form the legs. Screw them together with three 2-inch screws. Repeat for all four legs. Place one of the 4-foot, 7-inch slats at your first mark, so that the slat covers the X and is aligned with the pencil marks. Put two 2-inch screws into each end of the slat. Repeat this for each slat at each mark. Remember that one of your slats is holding the frame together and can be retrieved after at least five slats have been screwed in.

7. Turn the bed over so that the slats are underneath. Position one piece of 1-by-4 scrap in the inside corner of the frame. Set one of the legs on top of it so that is slightly raised from the slats. Screw each 1-by-4 of the leg into the bed frame with two 2-inch screws. Repeat this process with the same scrap piece for each leg of the bed.

8. Adjust the height of the 1-by-4 legs to make the bed taller or shorter. You may need additional wood for this.

References

• “How to Fix Damn Near Everything;” Franklynn Peterson, 1977