How to Build Your Own Whitewater Kayak Paddle
Whitewater kayaking is all about controlling the boat. That's good to keep in mind when building your own whitewater kayak paddle. You need a tough, rigid shaft and a blade that's wide for better purchase in the water. The blade should be feathered to reduce wind and water resistance when recovering to begin a new stroke. Wood is a popular, attractive and strong material for a whitewater paddle.
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Things You'll Need
- One 10 foot 2x2 made of ash, hickory or other suitable hardwood
- Two or three hardwood planks of different woods
- Sabre saw
- Power sander and/or planer
- Sandpaper
- Bungee cords or furniture clamps
- Gorilla Glue epoxy wood glue
- Rasp
- Fiberglass fabric
- Fiberglass resin
- Wood stain (choose a color)
- Marine spar varnish or waterproof polyurethane clearcoat
- Tacks
- Fiberglass resin spreader
- Latex gloves
- Disposable brush
- Acetone for fiberglass resin cleanup.
Instructions
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Assembling the Wooden Whitewater Paddle
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1
Cut a hardwood 2x2 to the length you want your paddle. For whitewater work, a shorter length, between 83 and 88 inches, is recommended.
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2
Cut hardwood planks into eight 1 1/2-inch-wide strips about 12 inches long. This will make a shorter wider blade for quick powerful strokes in whitewater.
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3
Plane or rasp one end of the 2-by-2 shaft to thin the last 12 inches of one end of the shaft to match the thickness of the hardwood strips you will use for the blades. Taper from the top of the flat end up onto the shaft to form the smooth curve of the throat, just above the blades.
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4
Arrange the wood strips side by side, two on either side. Apply waterproof glue or epoxy to the seams between the strips and between the strips and the shaft. Clamp the pieces together or wrap in bungee cords. Allow to cure for 24 hours.
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5
When dry, remove the clamps or cords. With a saber saw, cut out the shape of the blade you desire if you have a pattern you prefer. If not, round the edges at the bottom and taper upper corners to blend with a rasp and/or sander into the smooth curve of the throat and shaft.
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6
Trim the last 12 inches of the opposite end of the shaft so you have two parallel flat areas on opposite sides of shaft. Don't just used the existing flat sides. Draw a line across the end of the shaft canted at 75 degrees from the blade at the other end. This "feathers" the blade being recovered automatically when you make the pull with the opposite blade. Feathering reduces "catch" from wind and water when the blade is out of the water and being recovered.
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7
Follow the steps above to glue the 4 hardwood strips to the shaft and clamp them in place. Once they have cured for 24 hours, trim and shape the blades, rasp and sand the shaft until it is smooth and round.
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8
Sand, stain and varnish the paddle and allow to dry. Use several thin coats of varnish.
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9
Sand the tips of both blades. Cut a strip of fiberglass cloth (9 oz. or so weight) 4 1/2 inches wide and the width of the paddle plus 6 inches. Fold the cloth over the end of the blade, around the tip and partway up the sides of the paddle, and tack it down to hold it in place. Trim thick folds where the cloth folds over sharp corners.
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10
Mix a batch of fiberglass resin and brush it over the fiberglass cloth. Allow it to soak in and wet the cloth until all bubbles disappear and the white spaces between the threads become transparent. Remove the tack and smooth the cloth with the plastic resin spreader. Be sure to wear gloves while handling fiberglass and resin. Allow to cure hard and then apply two more coats of varnish to the whole paddle.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Dry your paddle after use and store in a dry place out of the sun.
Re-varnish annually to protect the finish and the underlying wood from water damage.
Work with solvents and varnishes in a well ventilated area.
Always wear gloves when handling fiberglass and chemicals.
Go slowly when working with a rasp to avoid hurting your fingers.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Female kayaker holding on to her paddle image by John Sfondilias from Fotolia.com
