How to Repair a Plumbing Problem in a Toilet

Toilet problems often develop in the inlet valve and in the waste outlet.

The two parts of a toilet are the tank and the bowl, and the way these operate together is very simple. The tank fills with water through a valve until a float mechanism triggers the valve to shut off. When the toilet is flushed, the tank water pours into the bowl, filling it past the level of the built-in P-trap, where it then drains into the waste line. If the valve mechanism is leaky or broken, if the drain or vent lines are clogged or if any part of the bowl or tank is not watertight, the result is a runny, clogged or leaking toilet.

Things You'll Need

• Screwdriver
• Flapper
• Dye
• Channel-locking pliers
• Rubber gasket
• Toilet plunger
• Snake

Instructions

1. Troubleshoot runny toilets by first checking the water level in the tank. If it is above the opening of the overflow tube, adjust the screw on the top of the valve to close the valve tighter or adjust the float mechanism. If your toilet has a float ball, make sure the ball is not full of water, then bend or twist the arm so the float causes the valve to stop sooner.

2. Wiggle the handle a little if the water is not higher than the overflow tube. Sometimes the flapper can get stuck and not seat correctly, which may be all that it takes to fix the runny toilet. Also check the chain for kinks that might make the chain too short to hold the flapper up. If neither of these procedures corrects the problem, check the flapper, and replace it if it appears worn. Also check the valve mechanism for signs of corrosion. Replace either of these as needed.

3. Check the tank for leaks by putting a little dye in the water. After two or three hours, check the toilet water. If it is colored, the flapper or seal between the tank and the bowl is leaking. Replace the flapper by unhooking it and hooking on a new one. Repair the seal by emptying the water from the tank, unscrewing the nuts holding it to the bowl and removing it. Then re-seat or replace the rubber gasket around the outlet. If the toilet water is clean, check the bolts holding the tank to the bowl for signs of color. Tighten them if you find any leaking water.

4. Diagnose a sluggish flush by quickly pouring water into the bowl from a five-gallon bucket. If it backs up, the waste pipe is probably clogged. You can usually loosen clogs with a plunger, but in some cases, you may have to use a toilet snake, which is a long, flexible auger. Insert the snake into the bowl as far as you can until the water in the bowl drains.

5. Check the toilet vent for obstructions if the flush is sluggish and you hear sucking sounds from the sink or shower when you flush. There may be branches or leaves preventing the toilet waste line from venting properly.

6. Remove the toilet if you see signs of leakage around the base. Look for signs of cracked porcelain or obstructions that may prevent the bowl from sitting tightly on the flange. Replace the toilet by scraping off the old wax from the flange and toilet outlet, fitting on a new wax ring and bolting the toilet back in place.

Tips & Warnings

• Contemporary toilets are water savers, meaning that they use only 1.6 gallons per flush. If you are experiencing problems with an older one that uses 5 gallons, this may be a good time to replace it. Rebates are available for retrofits in many areas.

• According to askthebuilder.com, first generation 1.6 gallon-flush toilets have known problems with flushing. Check the date on the inside of the tank, and replace the toilet if it was made between Jan. 1, 1994 and mid-1997 and if it is causing repeated problems.

References

• Ask the Builder: Toilet Repair Instructions for 10 Common Problems
• Home Tips: Toilet Repair & Problems