How to Judge Rubies
Marilyn Monroe declared diamonds to be "a girl's best friend" decades ago, but one gem surpasses diamonds in terms of romance: the ruby. Leaf through a Bible. Scan Proverbs 31 and read this: "A wife of noble character who can find? She is worth far more than rubies." Prized since biblical times, rubies are favored by July birthday celebrants and those who believe that while diamonds represent wedding tradition, nothing surpasses rubies for romantic symbolism--which is why you'll want to take extra care when judging stones you're considering buying.
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Instructions
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Make certain the stones you're judging are actually rubies rather than pink sapphires. Insist on medium to medium-dark red tones--hues falling within the cherry red to pigeon blood red color spectrum that are not too dark to judge faceting and clarity.
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Inquire into the origin of the rubies you're judging. Look for gems mined in Burma (particularly the Mogok region) or Myanmar, home to the best ruby deposits in the world. Settle for rubies from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Africa and Vietnam only if you can't afford to purchase Burmese jewels.
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Demand brilliant clarity when judging a ruby that's on the market. Expect a few alterations in naturally mined stone since more than 99 percent of all rubies are treated with heat to stabilize and enhance their clarity. That stated, ask about the method of heat treatment to which the ruby you're judging has been subjected. Choose the preferred cool wood "blow" method over the high-temperature, furnace-fired process. Look for eye-clean stones with shallow cuts known in the industry as "inclusions."
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Add value to the ruby you're judging if it's a round, heart or emerald cut rather than the more common oval or lower-grade pear and marquise cuts, which are shallower and lower grade. Say yes to a quality ruby that's above two carats, as these are rare. Five-carat rubies are almost nonexistent, so if one comes your way and you can afford it, write a check.
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Turn to professionals when judging the advisability of purchasing one or more rubies. Scan the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) website (see References section) to learn more about grading, cut, clarity and color. Consult with a professional gemologist in your city (see the Accredited Gemologists Association link in References section) to substantiate seller claims before you purchase a one-of-a-kind ruby.
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Tips & Warnings
Judge inclusions on star rubies differently than you would on a regular ruby. Expect a certain number of these cuts (also known as silk) if you're seeking a star ruby, but if there's too much star and not enough color saturation, buyer beware.
Inexpensive "Burma rubies" are being passed off as high-quality stones thanks to a new process called "bulk diffusion" that allows a coloring agent to be added to the cuts in rubies so they appear on the surface to be ruby-quality red. There is no such thing as a low-priced Burma ruby, so if you're offered one, take a pass.
References
- Photo Credit ruby necklace image by OMKAR A.V from Fotolia.com
