How to Ride a Wave on a Skimboard

Riding up a wave and then back onto shallow water takes lots of speed, good timing, great balance and plenty of practice.

Things You'll Need

• Swimsuits
• Sunscreen
• Beach Towels
• Skimboards

Instructions

1. 

   Find a beach with shore-break waves. These beaches usually have a steep slope entering the water.

2. Watch the waves for awhile to get a sense of their timing. Every beach and every swell is different. Watch for patterns. Mind-surf to plan your approach.

3. 

   Begin running at an angle to the water as the previous wave is sucking back into the next incoming wave.

4. 

   Drop and mount your board before you reach the break point of the wave.

5. 

   Lean back to take your weight off the front of the board as you hit the deeper water. The skimboard should ride easily up onto the deeper water if you are going fast enough (on a steep beach, you will be going fast enough).

6. 

   Keep your weight on your back foot and turn (frontside or backside depending on what angle you approached the water at) 90 degrees back toward the beach. Use your wave-side rail to hold your position on the wave.

7. Center your balance and ride down off the wave before it breaks.

8. 

   Ride back up the beach on the wet sand.

Tips & Warnings

• If the wave breaks while you're still on it, try to keep the board flat and your weight on the tail as you hit the sand. You still might ride away.

• This is a very advanced manuever, and every shore-break is different, so be careful and patient.

• If you feel yourself falling, try to fall into the ocean.

• If you have any condition which would impair or limit your ability to engage in physical activity, please consult a physician before attempting this activity.