Instructions for Making Twig Furniture

Twig bench.

Twig furniture is made from natural materials. "Twig," in this sense, may range from limber willow wands right on up to sturdy oak or cedar logs, with a wide gamut of materials in between. Projects may range from simple shelves or tables to chairs, couches, complex storage units or beds. Materials may be collected from brush heaps, hedge rows or selectively harvested from a wood lot. They may be used green or dry; but different techniques and expectations apply.

Things You'll Need

• Long-handled anvil pruning clippers
• Pocket knife
• Pruning saw
• Hatchet
• Hammer
• Drill
• Nails
• Copper wire (Moderately heavy gauge)
• Poles about 6 inches in diameter
• Flexible twigs, about 3 inches in diameter
• Wood screws
• Chain saw
• Marking pen
• Sand paper

Instructions

Twig Shelving Unit

1. Select four upright twigs, 6 to 8 inches in circumference. Cut to the height desired for shelf unit. These should be sturdy, with no sign of rot. Cedar or hickory make good uprights because the main trunk grows straight and slender, plus there are frequently sprouts in a wood lot or around a country home that need cut out of hedge rows or other places they have volunteered and are unwanted.

2. Cut the cross-members. You will need two end pieces and two cross pieces for each shelf. It is best not to make the shelves more than 18 inches long or more than 8 inches deep. If longer spans are used, the shelves may sag and warp, causing the unit to come apart and/or dump the contents.

3. Attach the end pieces to the uprights. Lay two of the uprights on a level surface. Place each end piece on the uprights so that the ends protrude slightly beyond outside edge of the upright. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the nail you intend to use to fasten them together through each end of the end piece and into the upright. Nail together. Repeat for each shelf end piece, up the length of the uprights. When you finish it should look like a small, sturdy ladder. If this is a camp shelving unit, you may want to start the bottom shelf at least 12 inches from the bottom end of the uprights, and sharpen them slightly so they can stick into the ground. If it is intended for home use, make sure the bottom ends of the uprights are cut off even and level. Repeat process with the other two uprights, making sure that the cross pieces are placed at the same height, so your shelves will be level.

4. Prop the two ladder-like pieces you have constructed into an upright position (if camping, drive the bottom ends into the ground), and place the cross members on the end pieces, just inside the uprights. Drill a hole through the end of the cross member into the upright. Secure with a wood screw. Repeat on both ends, and on both edges of the shelf. Repeat for each shelf.

5. Cut a pole long enough to angle across the back of the unit from one bottom corner to the opposite corner. Position it across the back and drill holes through each end and into a corresponding place on the uprights. Secure with nails or screws.

6. Cut finger-sized twigs long enough to reach across the cross members from front to back. You will need enough of them to go from one side of the shelf unit to the other, laid parallel across the cross members. You may wish to lay them so that they touch, or you may wish to leave space between them, depending upon what you want to store on them. These may be left loose or secured by gluing or winding string around them. Generally, twigs this small will not hold up to nails or screws.

Ladder Back Chair

1. Cut four uprights, about 2.5 to 4 inches in diameter. Two will be about 4 feet tall, and two will be tall enough to reach just above your knees or the knees of the person who will use the chair the most. If the poles taper off pretty quickly in circumference, make sure the big end will be on the bottom. Cut four pieces to serve as the top of the seat. Cut four more pieces to serve as braces for the legs. Cut three braces to go in the top part to serve as a backrest.

2. Drill a hole in the top of each front leg, and one near the bottom using a paddle drill bit. Make sure the holes go in the same direction. Sharpen each end of the stick that will be the seat front to a blunt point, and insert these points into the holes. If the hole is a little big, stuff some splinters into the space to fill it. Use carpenter's glue for extra security. Repeat the process for the stick that will be the bottom brace.

3. Lay the front unit you have just constructed on the two back uprights. Make sure the bottoms all match, so that your chair will be level. Mark the spacing for the holes, making sure they will correspond to the front you have just constructed. Add holes for the back rest, spacing them an equal distance apart on the uprights. Use the same process you used for the front to insert braces on the back.

4. Place the bottom side braces across the front and back braces. Drill a hole slightly smaller than a long wood screw through the brace into the leg of the chair. Secure using long wood screws. Place the side rails for the seat on top of the front and back rails for the seat. Drill a hole in each end going through the top piece into the piece underneath. Use a small paddle drill to create a shallow hole at the top to enable recessing the screw. Secure with wood screws. If desired, fill the recess with a decorative button of wood or with sawdust mixed with glue.

5. Weave strips of braided cloth or bark or rope back and forth from the side rails of the seat to create a chair bottom.

Table

1. From a felled log, cut a section 3 to 6 inches thick. This will be your table top. The size of table will vary with the size of tree.

2. On the bottom side of the slab piece, make a large X with a marking pen. Measure in 1 or 2 inches (3 if the slab is large), and drill a hole with a paddle bit, angling the hole out toward the edge of the slab. This will be where you insert the leg. Angling the hole lets the legs push against each other, and makes the table stronger.

3. Cut four poles the height desired for the table. Sharpen the ends to a blunt point. Insert the ends into the drilled holes. Use carpenter's glue to secure bond.

4. Turn the table upside down. Measure the distance between each pair of legs. Cut four pieces long enough to extend just slightly to the outside of each when placed across a pair of legs. Drill a hole in each end, going through the twig into the table leg. Use a small wood screw to fasten them together.

5. Wrap the brace joins with cord or bark for added strength. Turn the table upright. Sand the table top, if desired.

References

• "Making Twig Furniture & Household Things" by Abby Ruoff, 1999
• "Making Rustic Twig Furniture" by Bim Willow, 2002
• Mother Earth News: Wild and Woody