How to Install No-Glue Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring looks like hardwood flooring.

No-glue laminate flooring is an alternative choice for the glue-down hardwood flooring. The primary benefit of no-glue laminate flooring is that the planks interlock with one another instead of being glued to the existing floor. In comparison to glued flooring, no-glue laminate is not as messy and easier to install with the proper directions. No-glue laminate flooring requires no sanding and finishing or curing time. Once you have installed your last piece, your laminate flooring can be walked on.

Things You'll Need

• Premium underlayment
• Undercut saw
• No-glue laminate flooring planks
• Tapping block
• Pull bar
• Tape measure
• Circular saw
• Pencil
• Hammer
• Utility knife (if necessary)
• 5/16-inch spacers
• Level
• Duct tape
• Broom

Instructions

Preparing the Subfloor

1. Sweep the existing floor to remove dirt and debris.

2. Undercut any door jambs. Place a piece of no-glue plank on top of a piece of underlayment and use it as a prop guide while you are cutting the door jamb with the undercut saw to get the proper height. Stop when you reach the trim inside the doorway that meets with the door jamb.

3. Remove the shoe molding and baseboard trim, using the pull bar or claw end of the hammer.

4. Lay your underlayment from wall to wall. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the underlayment. Use the duct tape to join the seams of multiple pieces.

Laying the No-Glue Laminate Planks

1. Lay your spacers around the perimeter of the room, flush with the walls. Use two spacers for each plank. Make sure that you place two spacers in each of the corners.

2. Place your first no-glue laminate plank in the first corner. Start at the longest wall. The short section of your plank should be against the corner spacers, while the long section should be along the spacers of the long wall. Your groove end should be facing this same wall.

3. Place your second plank into position against the wall spacer, with the short ends of the first and second planks meeting. Tap into place, using the tapping block and hammer.

4. Repeat adding planks in this first row until you reach the opposite end. Your last piece will most likely need to be cut to fit, which can be done using the circular saw. Measure the gap; mark this length on a plank---from the groove side in---and then cut. Place and tap to secure.

5. Start your second row, and the remaining rows, by placing the first plank into position with the short end against a spacer and the long end against the plank of the first row. Your grooves should face the first row planks. Tap into place if necessary. Stop before you start the last row.

6. Measure the distance between the wall spacers for the last row and the planks of the previous row. Compare this width measurement to the measurement of the planks. If you have enough space to install full planks, cut off the tongues and continue installing the last row. If you don't have the space for full planks, measure the width needed from groove side to the tongue side and then cut your plank. You will be using the groove sides for the last row.

7. Remove the spacers from all the walls and replace your baseboard trim and shoe molding by nailing them back into position.

8. Sweep your new no-glue laminate flooring to remove dust and particles from installation.

Tips & Warnings

• If you are installing your no-glue laminate flooring in a bathroom, you must apply silicone caulking to each tongue before you tap the planks together and along the perimeter of the room before installing the flooring.

• To determine the amount of no-glue flooring you will need, measure the room for the square footage and then compare your measurements with the packaging specifications for coverage. Remember to include obstacles like cabinets or radiators in your measurements.

References

• Armstrong: Laminate Flooring
• Installing Laminate Flooring: Laminate Installation Handbook