Instructions for Sewing With Knit Fabric

Sewing knit fabric is easier than it seems.

Knit fabrics can be intimidating. The fabrics stretch, and so the stitches must stretch with the fabric or else they will break. A regular, sharp needle can snag the fabric or skip stitches. Despite all this, knits are actually easy to sew if the tailor takes the right precautions. Use ballpoint needles, which have rounded tips that go between the threads of the fabric and will not snag. Zigzag or serger stitches stretch along with the fabric, ensuring that the seams do not break. Sergers also trim off excess fabric, leaving you with nice, clean seams.

Things You'll Need

• 4 to 6 scraps of knit fabric
• Ballpoint needle
• Sewing machine
• Serger (optional)
• Matching thread

Instructions

1. Get a feel for sewing knit fabric by practicing using scrap pieces. Place two scrap pieces together and match the edges.

2. Place the ballpoint needle in your sewing machine or serger. Remove the needle already in place by loosening the screw next to the needle bar and pulling out the needle. Insert the ball point needle and tighten the screw.

3. Adjust the stitch length on your sewing machine. You will want to use a longer straight stitch with knit fabric, since longer stitches will stretch. A stitch length of three millimeters will work.

4. Sew the knit fabric, leaving a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

5. Sew knits with a zigzag stitch, which will stretch into a straight stitch when pulled. Place two scraps of knit fabric against each other, lining up the edges. Adjust your stitch setting so that it is on zigzag. Set the stitch length so that it is one or two millimeters. Sew the fabric together, leaving a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

6. Use a serger to sew knit fabric. Replace the serger's regular needles with ballpoint needles by loosening the screw near the needle bar and pulling out the regular needles. Slide the ballpoint needles in place and tighten the screw.

7. Place the last two fabric scraps on top of each other and serge. Keep the knife on the serger turned on so that it will trim any excess fabric from the seams.

References

• Threads Magazine: Primer on Sewing Knit Fabrics
• University of Kentucky: Sewing with Knit Fabric