How to Install Electrical Outlets in Studs
Installing electrical outlets is a simple, straightforward process. The process is the same no matter whether you are installing device boxes for receptacle outlets or lighting outlet boxes for wall sconces or ceiling-mounted lighting fixtures. Outlet boxes are available as steel boxes or as ABS Plastic boxes, but most electricians prefer ABS boxes when wiring homes because they are easier to work with. Either type installs the same way. For this article, it will be assumed that you are installing receptacle outlets. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Tape measure
- "New Work" device boxes
- Hammer
- 3/8-inch drill/driver
- Spade bits
- 12/2 w/Gr. Romex cable
- Cable cutters
- Razor knife
- Wire strippers
- Diagonal pliers/wire cutters
- Wire nuts
- Lineman's pliers/electrician's pliers
- Needle nose pliers
- Screwdrivers
- Duplex receptacle outlets
- Black plastic electrical tape
Instructions
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1
Mark the studs where the outlets are to be installed. Locate the first outlet by measuring 6 feet from the door and mark that stud. If the 6-foot mark falls between two studs, mark the one closer to the doorway. The National Electrical Code requires that no point along the floor line be more than 6 feet from a receptacle. Following this principle, mark out 12-foot intervals for the rest of the receptacles. One duplex receptacle actually counts as two receptacles, hence the 12-foot spacing between them.
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2
Measure 12-inches up from the finished floor line and mount the first box. There isn't any hard fast rule about receptacle mounting height but a height of 12 inches to the top of the box is considered standard in the electrical trades.
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3
Position the box against the stud so that the front edge of the box will be flush with the finished wall. ABS Plastic boxes have a positioning gauge on their side to make this easier. Once you have the box positioned correctly, drive the "captured" nails home.
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4
Route the cable between receptacle outlets and between the first outlet and the service panel by drilling 5/8-inch holes through the framing members. Drill the holes so that the front edge of the hole is a minimum of 1 and ¼ inches from the nearest edge of the framing member.
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5
Insert the cable ends into the boxes so it extends a minimum of 6-inches into the box. Secure the cable to the side of the stud within 6-inches of each box and at a maximum of 4-foot intervals there after where it runs along the side of studs using cable staples.
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6
Remove the cables outer jacket using the razor knife. Remove ¾-inches of insulation from the ends of the individually insulated conductors using the wire strippers.
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7
Cut 6-inch lengths of bare copper wire to use as pigtail splices. To make the pigtail splice hold the ends of the bare wires side by side and then twist them tightly together in a clockwise direction using the Lineman's pliers. Complete the splice by screwing on a wire nut.
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8
Make loops in the end of all the wires. Connect the white, neutral conductors, to the silver colored screws, the black hot wires to the brass colored screws, and the bare conductor to the green screw. To make these connections, place the wires under the screws in a clockwise direction and tighten the screws securely down on them. Place only one wire under one screw, that's all the NEC permits.
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9
Wrap the receptacle terminals with tape. Don't install the receptacles in the boxes until the wall finish is in place.
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References
Resources
- Photo Credit hall construction image by jimcox40 from Fotolia.com
