How to Make a Leather Tote

Making a leather tote is a rewarding project.

Leather work is generally regarded as an artisan's trade. However, crafters have discovered different methods with a variety of products now readily available in the market. By drafting a specific plan and using the right leather tools, you will be able to create a host of leather items including totes, handbags, garments and accessories. Making a leather tote is a rewarding project which will aid you in learning about different leather types, trims, tools and stitching.

Things You'll Need

• Leather
• Paper pattern
• Cutting mat
• Textile adhesive tape
• Binder clips
• Cotton piping filler or nylon drawcord or rope (optional)
• Roller guide (optional)
• Sewing machine
• Leather needles
• Leather knife
• Leather awl
• Rotary cutter (optional)
• Leather shears
• Heavy-duty scissors (optional)
• Leather glue
• Brush applicator

Instructions

Design and Pattern

1. Draft your tote's design. You can look through magazines or at your local mall for ideas. It is best to begin with a basic tote with an outside pocket. Choose a snap, zipper or add a fold over strap with a novelty clasp, or leave your tote open.

2. Draft your tote's paper pattern. For a simple tote, draft a 21-inch width by 15-inch length paper pattern. This will be your tote's body panels.

   Make a 21-inch length by 8-inch width bottom panel. If you are mixing two different colors or two types of leather, you can contrast the bottom panel and add a contrast bottom border. Draft a 2-1/2 inch width by 21-inch length pattern. You can overlay this piece onto your tote's body panel.

   Make a 30-inch length by 1-1/2 width pattern for your tote's straps. You can also opt to add an outside pocket by making a 10-inch width by 9-inch length pattern.

3. Place your hides on a flat work surface. Make sure your surface is protected. You can opt to use a cutting mat to avoid damage. Place your patterns and use binder clips to hold the leather and paper in place. Do not use straight pins. It can damage your leather and you will not be able to repair the hide or skin.

4. Cut two pieces for your tote's body and two pieces for your bottom panel, one for the outer shell and one for the inside bottom shell only. Cut one piece for your (optional) outer pocket. If you are adding the bottom contrast panels, cut two parts. Cut four straps for your tote's handles. You will have a double-ply strap. If you are adding a nylon drawcord or rope, you will have to add extra inches to your strap to accommodate your drawcord width. If you are using lightweight skins, you can use heavy-duty scissors. For heavier skins, use leather shears or your leather knife.

5. Change your regular sewing needle to a leather needle. You can use a 14 or 16 needle size; however it will depend on the type of hide or skin you are working with. Adjust your sewing tension. If you are adding the outside pocket and contrast bottom panel, you will need less tension to avoid broken and skipped stitches. Change your stitch selector to a long stitch. Small stitches will perforate your leather skins.

Constructing Your Leather Tote

1. Stitch your outer pocket onto one side of your tote's panels. Leave an opening for pocket entry. If you are adding the contrast bottom panel border, stitch each border to each tote body panel separately.

2. Stitch the outer panels together at the side seams. If you added the contrast bottom border, your leather will be thicker. You can adjust your needle to accommodate thicker layers of leather. Make sure that the right side of the skins are on the inside. Once stitched, you can opt to open the seams and run a straight stitch for your seams to remain flat. It is important to work slowly. You will be stitching on the wrong side of the tote and you can create crooked stitch lines on the right side. Practice this technique on two pieces of leather scraps prior to attempting on your project fabric.

3. Make a fold over hem on one end of your tote. You can opt to hem your leather with a leather glue or stitch. It is recommended to stitch the hem all around. If you use leather glue, place a piece of cloth or cardstock along the glue line in the event the glue runs. Use a brush applicator. Allow the glue to dry and bond.

4. Use your binder clips to hold your bottom panel in place and stitch. Turn your tote inside out, exposing the right side of your tote. Brush leather glue lightly on the inside of the bottom panel after your tote's frame is complete. This will give your tote a clean insert finish by hiding the surrounding seams. You can opt not to add the inside panel.

5. Stitch your straps separately. Your straps will be double-ply. Use your binder clips to temporarily attach your straps. Try your tote over your shoulder and make any necessary length adjustments. Make sure each handle is placed evenly for comfort and wearability. If you are adding a cotton piping filler or rope, place your textile adhesive tape on the wrong side of the leather strap. This will prevent your rope or drawcord from shifting. Attach your roller guide and stitch the handles separately. Use your binder clips to attach your handles prior to stitching, and your leather tote is now complete.

Tips & Warnings

• You can opt to add a cotton piping filler or nylon drawcord or rope to create sturdy tote handles; however, you will need a roller guide attachment for your sewing machine, which is not easily available at your local craft store.

References

• "The Art and Craft of Leather: Leatherworking Tools and Techniques Explained in Detail"; Maria Teresa Llado i Riba and Eva Pascual i Miro; 2008
• "Leatherwork: A Manual of Techniques"; Geoffrey West; 2005

Resources

• Windstream: Making a Custom Made Leather Handbag