How to Install Andersen Patio Doors

New patio doors are attractive and energy-efficient.

Replacing your Andersen patio door is a good idea if your set is very old or if it has been leaking over time. Old patio doors are not very energy-efficient, either, so it's probably time to replace them with newer models that are rot- and weather-resistant and are energy-efficient, too. Patio doors come in a variety of material choices, including steel, wood, and fiberglass. Consider your own preferences and the climate you live in to help you pick out the best double-door unit.

Things You'll Need

• Ear protection
• Respirator
• Gloves
• Utility knife
• Crowbars
• Hammer
• Cordless drill
• Screw bits
• Measuring tape
• Wood shims
• Hole punch
• Stainless steel screws
• Level
• Backer rod insulation
• Non-expanding foam insulation
• Chop saw
• 6 to 8 foot long table
• Extension cord
• New trim
• 8 Penny nails
• Silicone gun
• Silicone tubes

Instructions

Removing Old Double Doors

1. Cut away all old silicone or paint with the utility knife. This may take time if you have several layers.

2. Pry off the trim with the crowbar. Remove any nails with the hammer. If the patio door trim is screwed in place, remove the screws with the cordless drill and screw bits.

3. Cut away any insulation with the utility knife. Remove as much of it as you can.

4. Remove the patio doors by punching out the hinge pins with a hole punch and hammer. Remove the slider portion of the patio door by lifting it up and pulling it toward you. Now you have less weight to work with.

5. Remove any nails or screws holding the patio door frame to the wall studs. Use the hammer or cordless drill and screw bits to do this.

6. Pull the patio door loose from the rough opening hole.

Installing New Double Doors

1. Measure the rough opening width and height to make certain the new Andersen door will fit. The rough opening refers to the measurement from stud to stud. This refers to side to side studs and top to bottom studs.

2. Place some shims in the bottom of the rough opening hole.

3. Set the door frame in the rough opening on top of the wood shims. Level the door, as a helper holds it for you. Install one stainless-steel screw on each side, through the door frame and into the wall studs. Continue to level.

4. Level the door unit as you install more shims and stainless-steel screws until the door frame unit is secure. Go all the way around the door unit.

5. Insert backer rod insulation into the large gaps between the door frame and wall studs. Spray non-expanding foam to fill the smaller spaces to prevent air leaks.

6. Set up the chop saw and long table. Measure for the trim to be cut down to size. Don't forget to cut corners at a 45-degree angle. Cut all trim.

7. Install the trim with 8-penny nails and a hammer. Or use stainless-steel screws and the cordless drill.

8. Apply a bead of silicone with the silicone gun and tubes of silicone to the edge of the new patio door trim. Let dry for several hours.