How to Replace a Treated Wood Deck
Treated wood decks have a limited lifespan, typically 10 to 15 years, according to deck hardware manufacture Simpson Strong-Tie, depending on how well the homeowner has stuck to an annual maintenance schedule. The end of that lifespan is often not a pretty sight, as top rails cup, deck boards split and any infelicities in the original framing lead to a swaybacked appearance. In fact, old decks can collapse and lead to serious injury. Replacing a treated wood deck involves demolishing either the entire structure or everything but the framing. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Permits
- Screwdriver
- Crow bar
- Socket wrench
- Deck screws
- Replacement deck boards
Instructions
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Removal
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1
Check with your jurisdiction's planning department for any required permits for demolishing a deck or siting a dumpster for removed materials, if you don't plan to salvage them. Obtain permits if necessary for demolition and a dumpster. Check also on any requirements for permits for replacement decks.
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2
Unscrew deck screws to remove pressure-treated deck boards or use crowbar if boards are nailed in place or the screws have rusted. Stack removed boards decking by length if selling as salvage or place in dumpster.
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3
Inspect framing, including posts, beams and joists. If framing reveals cups or splist due to weathering or exhibit soft spots that indicate dry rot, remove by unbolting carriage screws; stacked removed framing materials by length. Stack removed boards decking by length if selling as salvage or place in dumpster.
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4
Identify possible water exposure or design flaws in the design if the original framing sags. Check with an architect or engineer for new plans to code if your original framing looks "underengineered," a term used, for example, when a beam uses a single 2-by-8 where code would call for doubled 2-by-12 lumber; have your architect or engineer inspect the framing before demolishing it.
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Continue to remove deck components in reverse order of standard deck assembly. Remove the top rail, the lattice or balusters and the bottom rail.
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Remove the intermediate joists, the end joists, the posts and the beams if you are replacing the framing. Stack in order of length. Replace with new pressure-treated lumber; upgrade to code to meet your jurisdiction's requirements.
Replacement
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Decide on replacement boards for your pressure-treated wood deck. If you want lower maintenance, research the costs, colors and warrantees on composite, aluminum or plastic decking. If you want the look of wood with a longer life than pressure-treated wood, research current costs and appearance of cedar or ipe deck boards.
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Install new pressure-treated wooden decking if lowest initial cost is the goal and be prepared to clean and stain it every one to three years, depending on the quality of the staining product.
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Replace original deck boards with your selected replacement deck boards. Install deck boards on joists 16 inches on center; add intermediate joists if existing joists are too far apart. Use deck screws, two per each joist, spaced 3 inches or more from the end of the deck board. Replace with new top rail, lattice or balusters and bottom rail.
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Tips & Warnings
Sell salvage deck boards and framing materials wood for a "greener" approach to your deck replacement and to save on dumpster costs. A strong market exists for salvage wood to make greenhouses, mini-decks, garden benches and temporary construction framing. Remove nails and screws from salvaged wood for the best price. Take metal from the original deck to the scrap yard for additional cash.
Most pressure-treated wood sold prior to 2004 contains chromated copper arsenate. Wear gloves while replacing a treated wood deck; wash hands after working; and keep children and pets away from the work site. Use a dust mask and eye protection if you need to saw any treated wood as part of your demolition of your original deck. Collect and dispose of any sawdust.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit deck image by Albert Lozano from Fotolia.com
