How to Insulate a Pole Barn With a Concrete Floor
Many people build a pole barn to provide temporary shelter, and then later decide to turn it into a shop. Expanding foam insulation works great if you do not want to finish out the space. But you need to be able to heat and cool the space to work in comfort. Batt insulation is made for 16- or 24-inch centers between studs. The do-it-yourself handyman can frame in a pole barn for traditional insulation. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Sketch pad
- 2-by lumber for framing (2-by-4, for example)
- Rolls of insulation
- Tape measure
- Framing square
- Hammer
- Nails
- Staple gun
- Staples
- Anchor gun
- Anchors
- Carpenter's level
- Utility knife
Instructions
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1
Sketch out the floor plan to decide the best way to insulate your pole bard. Drywall and traditional framing works on a 4-foot grid. Building products are made to work within this kind of grid. Measure the space between the posts of the pole barn. If they fall within a 4-foot grid, great. If not, you can cut down drywall and insulation for odd-size bays.
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2
Make a material list for the framing and insulation. You need 2-by-4 lumber for the top and bottom plates. Since you are framing between posts you do not need a second top plate. The length should be the distance between posts. Take the length between posts in inches and divide by 24 inches. This is the number of studs you will need plus one additional stud. Add up all of the bays to get your lumber package for the walls. You can buy rolls of ceiling insulation that fit between 24-inch studs. Divide the total length of insulation in a row by the height of the studs to determine the number of rolls of insulation you will need.
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3
Measure the ceilings of the pole barn. They are usually built at 48-inch on centers. Determine the amount of lumber needed to build an additional set of rafters to fit between the existing ones. A second option is to run ceiling joists across the pole barn and create a attic above. Ceiling joists are set at 24-inch on centers. Use the same method to determine your materials list.
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4
Frame each bay by cutting the top and bottom plate to fit between the posts. Measure from one end of the plates and put a mark at 23 1/4-inch. Place an "X" to the right of the mark. This indicates the side of the mark where the stud goes. Measure 24 inches from the last mark and repeat to locate all of the stud locations. The last stud is nailed to the ends of the plates. Use a framing square to transfer the marks onto both plates. Nail the studs between the plates by driving two nails into each stud through the plates.
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5
Stand the wall up and tap it into position between the post. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the wall is straight. Nail the wall to the post 16-inches apart along the stud. Shoot an anchoring nail through the bottom plate with an anchor gun. Place these between every other stud.
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6
Cut the roll of insulation to fit the length of the studs. Staple the insulation between the studs with the flange provided on the insulation.
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7
Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 for the remaining bays and ceiling joist.
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Tips & Warnings
Add a layer of plastic sheeting over the insulation to act as a vapor barrier.
Finish off the pole barn with drywall. The 48-inch framing modular works perfect for 4-by-8 foot drywall.
Wear safety glasses and long sleeve shirt when working with insulation.
References
- Photo Credit barn image by Joann Cooper from Fotolia.com
Comments
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technophilesw
Nov 20, 2010
I am concerned about condensation on the inside of the metal siding rotting out the purlins. Ever sat in a parked car during cold weather and seen the windows fog up within a few minutes? Humans breathe out water vapor. Currently looking at a 1" layer of closed-cell spray foam insulation as a vapor barrier and to prevent condensation, also to fill in the odd spaces between the poles and purlins. Then I'll follow up with the stud walls and fiberglass batt insulation recommended here.