How to Build Off-Center Bicycle Wheels

Rear bicycle wheels are built so that the rim is off set from the hub, making room for a cassette or freewheel.

With the exception of most BMX bikes, the rear wheel of your bike is likely built with two different sized spokes, so as to "offset" the rim, or otherwise to set it off center to the hub. The creates a wheel that has room on the drive side for a sprocket or cassette and derailleur but is still centered between the brake pads. the building of such a wheel can appear a daunting task for many novice wheel builders, but with a little know-how and the right size spokes, anyone can build a rear wheel for a road bike, mountain bike or beach cruiser.

Things You'll Need

• Drive side spokes
• Non-drive side spokes
• Spoke nipples
• Rim
• Hub
• Tire
• Tube
• Bicycle pump
• Spoke wrench

Instructions

1. Lay your spokes and other supplies out and check that you have everything you need. If building a 32-spoke wheel, you should have 16 short spokes, 16 long spokes and 32 spoke nipples. If building a 36-spoke wheel, you should have 18 short spokes, 18 long spokes and 36 spoke nipples. Measure each spoke to be sure they are the correct size for your hub and rim combination. If you are unsure, your local bike shop can determine the sizes you need, or you can use any of the free spoke length calculators online.

2. Insert one short spoke into every other flange hole on the right side of the hub (the side where a cassette of freewheel will be attached) from the outside. You should be able to see the butt of each spoke on the outside of the hub. These are your right-side "leading spokes." Attach each spoke to a right-side rim hole, using a spoke nipple, and tighten the nipple until you can no longer see the spoke threading. You should have three empty rim holes between each spoke.

3. Look through on of the empty right-side flange holes toward the left flange. The hole directly to the right of the hole you're looking through is the hole in which you should insert the first left-side leading spoke.

4. Insert a long spoke into every other flange hole on the left side of he hub from the outside. Looking at the wheel from the left side, insert each of these spokes into a rim hole directly to the left of each right-side spoke. Tighten a spoke nipple onto each one so you can no longer see the spoke threading.

5. Insert a short spoke into each empty flange hole on the right side (drive side) of the hub from the inside. You should be able to see the spoke elbow on the outside of the hub flange, instead of the butt of the spoke. If you are building a three-cross wheel, cross each of these spokes over two and under one of the pre-existing short spokes. If building a two cross wheel, cross each of these spokes over one and under one of the pre-existing short spokes. It is this criss-cross pattern that gives a bicycle wheel its strength and rigidity. Insert each spoke through a remaining right-side hole on the rim and attach a spoke nipple to each so that the spoke threading is no longer visible.

6. Insert a spoke into each of the empty holes on the left-side hub flange from the inside. Cross each of these spokes over the pre-existing left-side spokes the same way you did with the right-side spokes. Insert each spoke through one of the empty rim holes and attach a spoke nipple to each until you can't see the spoke threading. You should now have filled every hole on both the rim and hub and should have either a three-cross or two-cross spoke pattern on both sides of the wheel.

7. Set the wheel in a truing stand. If you don't have a truing stand, you can attach the wheel to the frame of the bike and use the brake pads as guides in much the same way. Spin the wheel slowly around. At each spot where the rim is not centered between the guides or rubs against one and not the other, tighten the spoke opposite the rub to center the rim. Repeat this process until the wheel is tensioned correctly and doesn't rub the guides or brake pads at any point.

8. Set a tire and tube on the rim and air them up to the specification labeled on the tire side wall. Attach the wheel to the bike and go for a short test ride. When you return, set the wheel back in the truing stand or check for trueness on the bike using the brake pads as guides. Make any necessary adjustments and be sure all spokes are tight and correctly tensioned. Your wheel should now ready for full-time use.

References

• The Big Blue Book Of Bicycle Repair; Park Tool; 2009
• Sheldon Brown: Building Bicycle Wheels