How to Make a Pair of Drawstring Breeches
Basic drawstring breeches are a project most costume makers will need to undertake at some point, as they are a part of so many historical and cinematic costumes. Renaissance costumers, in particular, will need to know how to make breeches for basic men's costumes and pirate costumes. Unlike modern trousers, breeches are extremely simple garments; they have a loose fit, no pockets, and are fastened by basic buttons or a drawstring, negating the need for the complex waistbands and fly fronts seen today.
Things You'll Need
- Old trousers or sweatpants
- Scissors
- Thick cotton fabric
- Fabric pencil
- Measuring tape
- Pins
- Thread
- Sewing machine
- Iron and ironing board
- Cording
Instructions
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Create the Fabric Pieces
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1
Find an old pair of your trousers that fit you loosely, but that you no longer need. Cut the trousers apart at the side seams, center back seam and center front seam. Cut off the waistband piece, and cut the legs at the length you would like your breeches to be. If the trousers have a fly piece, leave it alone.
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2
Lay each leg piece onto a double thickness of fabric. Trace around the outsides of the legs with a fabric pencil, then remove the trouser pieces themselves.
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3
Add 2 inches to both side seams for ease and a loose fit. Add less if you would like a tighter fit, and more for a very loose fit. Add 1/2 inch to the waistband height, center fronts and center backs.
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4
Cut your drawings from the fabric, so that you have four total leg pieces. Mark the center front and center back sides of each piece on the wrong side of the fabric.
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5
Measure around your calf, where the breeches will end, and add 1/2 inch. Cut two rectangles that are as long as this measurement and 2 inches wide. These will be your cuff pieces.
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6
Take your waist measurement and add 2 inches. Cut a rectangle that is as long as this measurement and 3 inches wide. This will be your waistband.
Assemble the Basic Breeches
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7
Pin the leg pieces together at the side seams, so that you have two opposite sides of the breeches. Sew these pieces together, stopping 3 inches from the bottom edge. Use a seam allowance of 1/2 inch.
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8
Iron the seams flat and open the leg pieces. Pin the leg pieces together at the center back and center front seams.
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9
Sew the center back edge, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Continue sewing along the center front edge, then stop 3 inches from the top edge. Iron the seam open.
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10
Pin the top edge of the breeches to the long edge of the waistband piece, lining up the center front edges. If necessary, you can gather the top edge of the breeches to fit the waistband. Sew this edge together, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, and iron it toward the waistband.
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11
Fold the center front edges under 1/2 inch and sew them down. Fold the top edge of the waistband under 1/2 inch and baste it in place.
Finish the Drawstring Breeches
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12
Fold the waistband in half toward the inside of the breeches and pin it along the seam line, creating a casing for the drawstring. Sew the folded edge down, hiding the stitches in the seam.
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13
Pin the hem of each leg piece to the long edges of your remaining two rectangles. Sew each piece together, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Iron the seams toward the rectangles.
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14
Fold the open sides of each leg piece 1/2 inch to the inside and sew it in place. Fold the bottom edge of each leg piece under 1/2 inch and baste it.
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15
Fold the bottom edge of each leg piece in half toward the inside of the breeches and pin them along the seam lines, like you did for the waistband. Sew the folded edges down.
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16
Cut three lengths of cording. Cut one length that is 1 1/2 times your waistband measurement, and two lengths that are 1 1/2 times your calf measurement. Feed these pieces through their respective casings.
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Tips & Warnings
If the front fly gapes open too much, you can stitch the center front seam higher or add a fly piece with buttons.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit pirate girl image by Andrejs Pidjass from Fotolia.com