How to Convert Garage to Bedroom

Are you in need of an extra bedroom? Do you have a garage? Whether there is a new baby on the way, the mother-in-law is moving in or you just need to expand on the rooms that you already have, that garage could be the solution to your problem. With a little hard work you can transform that garage into a beautiful addition to your home.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure
• Lay in insulation
• Drywall
• Drywall lift
• Drywall nails
• Hammer
• Chalk line
• Utility knife
• Mesh drywall tape
• Drywall mud
• 6" putty knife
• Paint or texture
• Tin snips
• Carpet
• Carpet tape (if carpet does not fit room in one piece)
• Cement nails
• Tack strips
• Carpet padding
• Knee kicker

Instructions

1. Measure the interior walls of the garage for length, width and height. Measure the ceiling for both width and length. These measurements will give you the information needed to purchase the correct amount of drywall. Calculate the total square footage and divide by 32 to determine how many sheets of drywall are required.

2. Use your height measurement to measure the length of the insulation. Cut the insulation to length and press it into the spacings between the studs. Place insulation behind any electrical wires. Insulation should stay in place, but placing two nails through the insulation and the studs on both sides of it will keep it in place.

3. Start installing the drywall on the ceiling. This allows the drywall on the completed walls to add extra support to the ceiling. Use a drywall lift to keep the drywall sheet flush against the ceiling studs. Hammer drywall nails into the drywall 10" to 12" apart along each stud. Nails should be slightly recessed but not break the paper. Place next full sheet of drywall flush against the first and continue until you reach the end of the row.

4. Measure from the end of the drywall to the wall if the space does not accomodate a full sheet. Measure out drywall to length needed. Make measurement mark on both sides of the non-papered side of the drywall and snap chalk line across it. Cut along the chalk line with utility knife. Snap drywall along the cut line, cut the paper backing still holding it and install. Start again with a full sheet. Butt it up against the partial sheet giving a staggered seam that creates an interlocking pattern that adds stability.

5. Install drywall to the walls from top to bottom. Hold full sheet of drywall in place and hammer nails 10" to 12" apart along each stud. Wall should have the same staggered interlocking pattern as the ceiling. The bottom sheet of drywall should sit 1/2" from the floor.

6. Apply mesh drywall tape to all seams and corners of both walls and ceilings. Use a 6" putty knife to apply a thin layer of mud to tape and nail indentations, spreading it down to a smooth finish as you do so. Allow plenty of time for mud to dry. Apply a second coat of mud and allow to dry thoroughly.

7. Paint or texture finished drywall as desired.

8. Place tack strips at the edges of the walls approximately 1/4" away from the wall. Cut to fit any smaller sections with tin snips. Hammer into place with cement nails.

9. Roll carpet padding over the floor and cut to fit right to the edge of the tack strips.

10. Roll carpet out and cut with utility knife leaving 1/2" over the tack strips. Start at any corner and use knee kicker to attach to the tack strips. Trim any excess off leaving a 1/2" lip. Use 6" putty knife to wedge the lip beneath the drywall.

Tips & Warnings

• If more than one section of carpet padding is necessary, carpet padding can be joined using a wide clear tape.

• If more than one section of carpet is necessary, carpet tape can be applied and heated with an iron to adhere it before the carpet is installed.

• Hanging drywall requires heavy lifting and should not be done alone.

• Always use caution when lifting and bending with heavy or cumbersome objects.

• The use of eye wear protection is recommended.

• Knee pads are recommended for carpet installation.