How to Size Silver Rings
While it is always best to purchase a silver ring that is sized correctly for the person who will wear it, sometimes this isn't possible. Most of the time, it is possible to increase or decrease the size of a ring by two ring sizes. It is important the ring is sterling and not plated and it is better if the ring doesn't have stones that may be sensitive to heat.
Things You'll Need
- Ring mandrel
- Ring size gauges
- Vise
- Mallet
- Wood block
- Torch (optional)
- Fire brick (optional)
- Pickling pot (optional)
- Copper tongs (optional)
Instructions
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1
Determine the size that the ring needs to be by fitting the person who will wear the ring using professional ring gauges. These slip over the finger and correctly identify the right size.
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2
Place the ring on a ring mandrel. A ring mandrel is a cone-shaped metal rod that is marked incrementally with ring sizes. Position the bottom of the mandrel in a vise to hold the mandrel steady. The ring should be level and perpendicular to the mandrel.
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3
Place a slightly concave wood block against the mandrel so that it rests against the ring. Tap the wood firmly and then reposition it to one side until the entire ring has been evenly moved down the mandrel. Remove the ring and place it back on the mandrel upside down of its former position. Because a mandrel is tapered, if a ring is only tapped or shaped from one side then it will have an uneven inner taper. Turning the ring over corrects for this problem.
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4
Size the ring by using the wood block and mallet and going around the ring again. You should be able to read the marks on the mandrel to know when you have increased the ring size by half a size.
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Tips & Warnings
Your silver ring may need to be heated, annealed and pickled to expand the silver without cracking. To shrink a ring, a piece may need to be removed and the cut area soldered together. To expand a ring beyond half a size, a cut can be made and silver added to the band by soldering. A good jeweler can help you choose the process that will work best for your silver ring.
Sizing metal that is already too hard may cause damage to the ring. When possible, anneal your ring before sizing it.