How to Replace Cedar Shakes on a House
Cedar shakes are a traditional siding material that has been used for hundreds of years in parts of the Eastern United States. Properly preserved and maintained, cedar shakes should last for decades. However, harsh weather conditions, lack of maintenance, or inferior material quality can lead to damaged cedar shakes and compromised protection for your house. Badly deteriorated shakes need to be removed. Then the underlying surface will need to be prepared before re-siding with new cedar shingles. Does this Spark an idea?
Other People Are Reading
Things You'll Need
- Pitch fork
- 1-inch x 3-inch x 8-foot board
- 30# felt
- Stapler
- Corrosion-resistant nails
- Cedar shingles
- Chalk line
- Level
- Utility knife
- Planer
Please enter your 10 digit phone number only.
A link to this article has been sent to the phone number provided.
Instructions
-
Removing Damaged Shingles and Preparing the Underlayment
-
1
Remove the damaged cedar shakes using a pitch fork. Slide the fork underneath each course, or row, of shingles, and pry the deteriorated shingles from the exterior of the house.
-
2
Examine the exposed surface. Look for any nails or obtrusion. Remove any obtrusion or pound them flush with the underlayment.
-
-
3
Cover the surface with 30# felt. Use a stapler to fasten the felt in place. You can affix flashing on the inside corners in order to keep the felt in place and prevent tearing.
-
4
Create your story pole. Use a pencil to mark the base, or butt line, or each course of shingles. The first course should lie a couple of inches below the house's foundation. Each subsequent butt line should leave about 40 percent of the underlying shingle exposed. Refer to your story pole, and use your chalk line to snap a level line to which you align the base of each shingle as you work.
Fastening the Shingles
-
5
Use two corrosion-resistant nails to fasten each shingle in place. The nails should be driven about one inch higher than the butt line of the course above the shingles you are fastening. Each nail should be driven three quarters of an inch from the edge of the shingle.
-
6
Leave about one eigth inch between each shingle to allow for expansion.
-
7
Work your way from the lowest course up. Stagger the gutters between the courses of shingles. This will provide your siding with greater water resistance.
-
8
Lace the corners. When you reach a corner, trim the first shingle so that it is flush with the edge of the house. The corresponding corner piece should then be trimmed so that it is flush with the edge of its mated shingle. Alternate this pattern as you work your way up the house. Lacing the corners will provide greater water resistance.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
A prefabricated corner piece can be used instead of lacing the corners. Affix the corner piece, and then bring your shingles right to the edge of it.
A quality penetrating oil-based wood stain will add moisture resistance and protect your siding from harmful ultra-violet (UV) rays from sunlight.
