How to Wire-Wrap Odd-Shaped Gemstones

A wire wrap is one of the most creative ways to contain an oddly shaped gemstone that you intend to use as a jewelry component. Because wire is such a flexible medium, you can contain the gemstone in a way that highlights its beauty while also creating an original and eye-catching design with the wire itself. While traditionally shaped gemstones can be wire-wrapped by following a set of rigid instructions, the best type of wire wrap for odd-shaped gemstones is a free-form one.

Things You'll Need

• Chain-nose pliers
• Round-nose pliers
• 20-gauge wire
• Gemstones
• Tape

Instructions

1. Cut about one foot of wire to wrap a gemstone that is about 1 ½ inches long by ½ inch wide. Note that you may need more or less, depending on the size of your gemstone. Remember that you can always cut off any excess wire you have left after completing the wrap, so starting with too much wire is OK.

2. Use chain-nosed pliers to hold a length of straight wire in one hand. Hold round-nosed pliers in your other hand. Wind the wire around the round-nosed pliers to form a loose spiral that is half as long as the gemstone.

3. Position the wire spiral at the front bottom center of the gemstone. Tape it in place. Turn the gemstone over so you are looking at its backside. Use your fingers or, if it is easier, the round-nosed pliers to bend the wire in all the steps that follow.

4. Bend the wire over the center bottom of the gemstone. Continue to bend the wire straight up the center of the back of the gemstone. Bring the wire over the top of the gemstone and about halfway down the front, so it hovers just above the spiral.

5. Bend the wire at a 90-degree angle above the curl. Make one tight horizontal wrap around the gemstone, bringing the wire back to the front of the gemstone.

6. Bend the wire back down so it is pressed against the front surface of the gemstone. The wire should point toward the top of the gemstone and be centered with the curl. Bring the wire over the top of the gemstone and down the back. Stop when you get halfway down the back of the stone.

7. Angle the wire out at 90 degrees from the gemstone and wrap it around the center of the gemstone 1 ½ more times. Bend the wire back down so it is pressed against the surface of the front of the gemstone and reaching toward the top.

8. Slip the end of the wire under the wire that is already at the top of the stone. Bend the wire so it is pointing straight up from the center top of the gemstone. Use round-nosed pliers to form this wire into a wrapped loop to create a bail. If you do not desire a bail, simply slip the wire under the wire already at the top of the stone a few more times and cut off the excess.

9. Remove the tape holding the spiral to the gemstone.

Tips & Warnings

• To make a bail at the top of the gemstone so you can wear it as a pendant, use round-nosed pliers to bend the wire into a loop. Wrap the wire around the base of the loop three times. Snip off the excess wire.

• Feel free to use these guidelines loosely and improvise, creating a wire wrap that best suits the odd shape of your gemstone.

References

• A Freeform Wire Wrap