How to Wire Wrap Facet Gemstones
A wire wrap is one of the most creative ways to contain a faceted gemstone that you intend to use as a jewelry component. Because wire is such a flexible medium, it enables you contain the gemstone in a way that allows its beauty to shine while also creating an original and enchanting design with the wire itself. Wire can provide a surprisingly tough and secure setting for a faceted gemstone. With the proper tools, supplies, and a bit of time, you can fashion a durable and attractive wire wrap for your faceted gemstones.
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Things You'll Need
- 20-gauge square soft jewelry wire
- 22-gauge square hard jewelry wire
- 22-gauge half-round hard jewelry wire
- Faceted gemstones
- Wire cutters
- Flat-nosed pliers
- Round-nosed pliers
- Felt-tip pen
- Ruler
- Tape
- Pen knife
Instructions
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Use a ruler to measure the depth of your faceted gemstones. Note that the depth of the stone will determine how many pieces of 20-gauge square soft jewelry wire you will require.
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Cut enough 8-inch-long portions of 20-gauge square soft wire to equal the depth of the stone when they are laid side by side. Secure the bundle of wires with tape at each end. Use a ruler to find the midpoint of the bundle of wires. Mark the midpoint with a pen.
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Grasp several inches of 22-gauge half-round hard jewelry wire. Use flat-nosed pliers to fold 1/16 inch of the wire down. Position the folded-down portion of wire around the bundle of soft wires, slightly off center. Wrap the hard wire at least six times around the bundle of soft wires to bind them. Snip off the excess hard wire. Use flat-nosed pliers to fold it over the bundle on the same side you started on to complete the binding.
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Turn over the bundle so you are looking at its opposite side. Use a pen to make two marks at 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch from each edge of the hard wire binding (four marks total). Use a pen knife to lift the top wire of the bundle up at a 90-degree angle from the bundle on each side of the binding. Bend the wire back down toward the bundle at the 1/4-inch mark using round nosed pliers. Bend the wire so it runs parallel to the bundle at the 1/2-inch mark. You will have formed two small triangles with the top wire of the bundle on each side of the binding.
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Use 22-gauge square hard jewelry wire to make a pair of second bindings on both sides of the first binding. Make the second bindings at the 1/2-inch mark where the top wire rejoins the bundle. Begin and end these bindings on the same side as the first binding.
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Wrap the bundle of wires around the bottom edge of your gemstone. The center binding of the bundle should be at the center bottom of the gemstone. Bring the two triangular pieces of wire around the front of the stone to hold it in place.
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Continue to wrap the bundle of wires up around both sides of the gemstone until the two portions of bundled wires meet at the center top of the gemstone. Bend the two portions of bundled wire straight up so they are pressed flat against each other. Use 22-gauge square hard wire to bind both portions of the bundle where they meet. Wrap the binding wire four times around the bundle to create the binding.
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Grasp the two front wires from both portions of the bundle above the binding you just made. Bend the pair of front wires down toward the front of the gemstone. Bind them using 22-gauge square hard wire. Spread the two wires apart below the binding. Wrap them around the gemstone until they meet again in the back. Bind the wires again at the back of the gemstone. Bend them down so they run the length of the gemstone. Fold the wires into the bundle at the bottom of the gemstone, snipping off any excess.
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Return to the top of the gemstone where the bound bundle of wires is emerging straight up. Cut the bundle at a point 1/2 inch above the top binding. Bend all but two of the wires forward. Fold them behind the first wires that wrap around the sides and back of the gemstone.
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Work with the two wires remaining at the top of the gemstone to create a bail, which will allow you to wear the gemstone as a pendant. Wrap one wire tightly around the other two times and then snip off the excess. Use round nosed pliers to create a loop with the single remaining wire, bringing it back down toward the top of the gemstone. Wrap the wire three times over the wrap you just made, and snip off the excess.
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Tips & Warnings
Use jewelry wire in sterling silver or gold to create a quality wrap that is suitable for a fine, faceted gemstone.
