How to Build a Patio With Pergola

Building a pergola along with a new patio allows you to install the pergola posts or post footings before laying the patio surface. Since the pergola structure will be supported independently of the patio, you can pave the patio with any type of surface (sand-set or sand-base, patios are the easiest to build). If the pergola will be freestanding (supported only by corner posts), you can bury the posts in holes with concrete. If it will be attached to the house, the front posts must be buried or anchored to concrete footings that extend below the frost line (ground-frost depth). Check with your city's building department for all applicable building and permit requirements for your project.

Things You'll Need

• Basic carpentry tools
• Stakes and mason's string
• Excavation tools
• Concrete
• 4 x 4, 4 x 6 or 6 x 6 posts*
• 2 x 8 or larger lumber (beams)*
• 2 x 4 lumber (rafters)*
• 2 x 2 lumber (slats)*
• 1/2-inch galvanized carriage bolts
• 10d galvanized common nails
• 3 1/2-inch deck screws
• Compactible gravel
• Sand
• Long, straight 2 x 4 (screed board)
• Plate compactor (available for rent)
• Patio paving materials
• Patio edging (optional)
• Push broom
• *All lumber must be pressure-treated or a decay-resistant grade of cedar or other species

Instructions

How to Build a Sand-set Patio with Freestanding Pergola

1. Mark the location of each corner post, using a stake. Measure diagonally between opposing stakes to make sure the layout is square (that is, has perfect 90-degree corners; the pergola shape can be square or rectangular). When the diagonal dimensions are equal, the layout is square.

2. Dig a hole for each post, then add 6 inches of drainage gravel to each hole, and tamp the gravel firmly. Set the posts in the holes, and brace them temporarily with cross bracing so they are perfectly plumb. Fill the holes with concrete and let it dry.

3. Cut the ends of the 2 x 8 or larger beam boards with a decorative profile, if desired. Install the beams over the outside faces of the posts with pairs of 1/2-inch carriage bolts. Mark the layout of the rafters onto the beams, using 12-inch spacing, or as desired. Cut and install 2 x 4 rafters on top of the beams, using 10d nails; the rafters are perpendicular to the beams.

4. Mark the layout of the 2 x 2 lattice slats onto the two outer rafters, using the desired spacing; the slats are perpendicular to the rafters. Cut the slats to length and install them with 3 1/2-inch deck screws.

5. Plot the edges of the patio with stakes and mason's string, then measure to make sure the layout is square. If the patio is next to a house or other structure, slope the side strings down and away from the structure at 1/8-inch per foot.

6. Excavate the patio area, then add 2 to 3 inches of compactible gravel. Rake the gravel flat and tamp it with a plate compactor. Repeat with another layer of gravel. Add a 1- to 2-inch layer of sand and screed it smooth with a long 2 x 4. For a sloped patio, the gravel and sand layers must follow the slope of the layout strings.

7. Install the patio paving material (such as brick or concrete pavers or flagstone). If desired, install edging around the perimeter of the paving. Sweep fine sand over the completed paving to fill the joints between paving units. Dampen the surface with a garden hose to settle and compact the sand, and let it dry; repeat until the joints are full and firm, locking the paving in place.

References

• "Lowe's Complete Patio and Deck Book;" Sunset Publishing Corp.; 2004