How to Make Interior Storm Windows
Designed to reduce the amount of heat lost through windows, storm windows increase comfort, save energy and money, and reduce outside noise. Placing them inside the house reduces the risk of damage from winter weather or flying debris and maintains the curb appeal of the home. Homeowners with minimal carpentry skills can build their own interior storm windows and enjoy their benefits during cold weather.
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Things You'll Need
- Tape measure
- Table or hand saw
- 1-by-4-inch #3 pine boards
- Screwdriver
- 8 drywall screws, 3-inch
- Sandpaper
- Primer and paint (optional)
- ½-inch double-sided tape
- Scissors
- Heat shrink film
- Hair dryer
- 2-inch clear packing tape
- ½-by-½-inch foam weatherstripping
Instructions
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1
Measure the window to be covered by the storm window. Measure in at least two locations, both across the window and from top to bottom. Subtract ½ inch from the measurements to allow for the weatherstripping.
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2
Rip the 1-by-4 boards in half to make 1-by-2 lengths. Cut two of the 1-by-2 boards to the measured height of the window. Cut two more boards to the measured width of the window less 4 inches.
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3
Prepare the frame for the storm window. Butt the first short 1-by-2 board against the long side of a longer piece, lining up the corner edges. Using two drywall screws, screw through the long board into the short board. Attach the second short board to the top of the frame the same way. Butt the second long board against the short boards and screw into place for the fourth side of the frame. Sand the frame thoroughly, smoothing off all sharp edges. If desired, prime and paint the frame.
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4
Attach one side of the double-sided tape along the top outside edges of the front of the frame. Do not remove the paper immediately.
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5
Cut heat shrink film large enough to fully cover the frame with a little extra for ease of handling. Remove the paper from the double-sided tape on one short side of the frame. Stretch the film carefully over the frame and stick it onto the tape. Press the film firmly into place with a fingernail. Working down the long sides of the frame, expose 1 or 2 inches of the tape at a time and stick down the film. Try to keep the film evenly distributed on the frame. At the bottom, expose the tape and finish sticking the film down on the last side of the frame. Make sure the film is stuck firmly on all frame edges.
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6
Shrink the film on the frame by using a hair dryer on it. Keep the dryer 6 to 8 inches away from the film at all times --- holding it closer may burn holes in the film. When finished, the film should be tight and free of wrinkles. Trim off any extra film at the frame edges.
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7
Repeat steps 4 through 6 on the other side of the window frame. Keep the inner sides of the film as clean as possible, because they cannot be cleaned once the storm window is built.
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8
Place 2-inch tape along the outer edges of the storm window, covering the film edges and outer frame. Center the tape on the outer edges and crease it slowly onto the window faces.
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9
Attach the weatherstripping on the outer edge of the frame, near the front face. When placed next to your home's window, this will make a snug seal. If the storm window must be installed against the window trim instead, place the weatherstripping on the back face.
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10
When starting to use the house heating system, swap the window screens for the interior storm windows. Place the storm windows as close to the home window as possible. In the spring, swap the storm windows and screens again. Store the storm windows in a secure location while unused, to ensure a longer lifespan.
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Tips & Warnings
To check for wrinkles in the film while shrinking, hold the storm window up to a light at a slant.
The storm window will not seal properly unless the home window is locked.
Make sure any storm window placed over an emergency exit can be easily removed in case of an emergency.
Although the film will tear if poked by a sharp object, these interior storm windows may last up to 10 years with proper care.
