How to Build a Backstrap Loom
Used for centuries, backstrap looms provide weavers with a portable, flexible tool for making a wide variety of woven items. Although simply built, backstrap looms allow weavers to experiment with complex designs, such as in-woven brocades and traditional motifs like those found in Mayan weavings. With only basic carpentry skills, you can easily build your backstrap loom and continue this old tradition.
Things You'll Need
- Table or hand saw
- Sandpaper or electric sander
- Cord or rope
- 2 dowels, about 1-inch diameter
- Warp threads
- 1 dowel, about ½-inch diameter
- 1 dowel, about ¾-inch diameter
- 2 dowels, about ¼-inch diameter
- String
- 1 flat wooden piece, about ¼-inch thick and 1- or 2-inches wide
- Weft threads
- Wide belt or strap
Instructions
-
-
1
Cut all dowels about 4 inches longer than the width of desired weaving project. Sand all the rough edges.
-
2
Tie a length of cord onto the ends of the first 1-inch dowel. Make a loop that can be attached to a tree, post or other stable object while weaving. This dowel will also serve as the upper end bar for the warp--or vertical threads.
-
-
3
Tie one end of a length of the cord to one side of the upper end bar, inside the loop. Wrap the cord around the bar a few times to stabilize it. Stretch the cord to the side about 1 inch. Tie a half-hitch around the bar, leaving the cord somewhat snug against the bar. Continue stretching the cord and tying half-hitches along the length of the bar. Try to leave the same amount of cord and maintain an even tension between each half-hitch. When almost at the opposite loop knot, wrap the end of the cord around the bar a few times and tie it off.
-
4
Stretch the cord and tie similar half-hitches across the lower end bar. Leave room at each end for attaching the backstrap. Use short lengths of the cord to attach each end of the wide belt to the lower end bar to serve as the backstrap.
-
5
Thread the warp yarn back and forth through the cords tied on the upper and lower end bars. If necessary, tie on new lengths as close to one bar as possible.
-
6
Insert the ½-inch dowel through the warp threads, going under every other thread. Place the dowel about 1 foot from the upper end bar. Insert the ¾-inch dowel through the threads, going under every alternate thread from those of the ½-inch dowel. Place this dowel about 6 inches below the ½-inch dowel.
-
7
Lay one of the ¼-inch dowels on top of the warp threads, about 6 inches below the ¾-inch dowel. Wrap a length of string around one end of the dowel, making sure the final wrap ends on top of the dowel. Run the string under the first warp thread and around the back of the dowel to the front again. Skip one warp thread. Go under the next warp thread and around the dowel again. Repeat the under-and-around procedure until all alternate warp threads are connected to the dowel. Wrap the end of the string around the other end of the dowel and tie it off. This rod will serve as the heddle rod, lifting alternate threads during the weaving.
-
8
Trim the ends of the flat piece until they are arrow points; this is your batten. Smooth the edges to prevent the batten from snagging on the warp threads. To use, weave the batten under an alternate warp thread. Turn it on its edge to open a space--or shed--for the bobbin to pass through. On the next row, pull up alternate threads with the heddle rod to allow the batten to pass over the threads passed under on the row before. After passing the bobbin through the shed, lay the batten flat, push downward along the warp threads and tighten the weaving.
-
9
Wind the weft--or horizontal threads--onto the second ¼-inch dowel. Push this dowel from side to side between the sheds to create the weaving.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Between weaving sessions, roll the work into a bundle to protect the design.
Always use tools with care; keep a first-aid kit handy.
